? Did you use a timing light?

Double check firing order against TDC? Remove valve cover if in doubt

Assume this uses the eighties standard HEI

 

I got the engine to crank without a back fire but it still wont fire. I have compression and a put the balancer at 0 put the number 1 wire inline with the rotor on the distributor, it sounds like it wants to fire it just wont fire. i have been turn the cap a little each way trying to get it to fire. Anybody have any idea what else could be wrong.

Thanks.

 

How about the throttle position sensor?

 

TPS will only affect injector cycle. Disconnect it if in doubt.

Okay.. You have fuel {assume you've done a cap of gas in the TB.}

You have spark {hot & blue} at the right time for #1 top of compression stroke '0' deg

You've verified the firing order of course.. but does the firing order match the direction of rotor rotation?

Only ask cuz it's a dim recollect of 'back in the day' foof!

Also basic: If you're used to Fords for example, GM Cyl # are by rod position on the crank, Left 135{7} Right 246{8}

 

Another Update. i got the vehicle to start and run as long as i have pressure on the gas pedal. i got it to start wthout pushing on the gas pedal, but for it to remain running I have to keep pressure on the pedal. i think i just have to tweak the timing.

I have included a video with it running.

http://youtu.be/sndJUTJUJrk

 

I really think you're on the right track. It sounds like timing could be the culprit. I have a 68 nova race car with a big block and when I put the new motor in I had the exact same issue. It would only run with 1/2 or more throttle. It was a timing thing. It was also a pain in the butt. Big cam loud exhaust and stuff made it even more difficult. Try to get the engine warm and turn the dist. untill you can slowly let off the pedal. I know it's going to be hard. Then try to get a timing light on it. Try not to set the timing while the motor screaming at high rpm's. Good luck

 

Just disconnect vac advance if it has it and set timing at 0 or just a bit past that, toward ATDC, while cranking. That should get you in ballpark for 10 deg at idle.

 

i got the engine cracked and then i set the vavles becauser the were loose and clanking. The engine runs rough and wants to die. i drove it about 2-3 miles got gas it started right up and drove it back home pulled in the drive way and i put it in park before I could get to the key it shut off. What could be the cause?

 

i have it fired might still need to tweak it a little bit. i have idling at 950-1000 rpms and when i put it into drive i drop down to around 700. does that sound right for a 350 bored .060 over.

 

Sounds like the timing is still off.