Hi I need your guys help with starting issue on my 2003 Chevy blazer, it has 140,000 some miles on it not exactly sure as I’m posting away from the vehicle I replaced the fuel pump over a month ago because it stalled out on me at a stop light everything been good until my battery died cuz of the winter cold then replaced the battery and once again it was good then I had an issue a couple weeks ago with I believe the starter I had power but then I just heard click I tried knocking on it with a hammer then waited till it warmed up the next day it fired right up.

But my problem now is after I moved it out of my drive way to snowblow I tried to start it up an hour later and it’s got power but just won’t catch I thought maybe it needed more gas as it was low I also haven’t started it in a few days so I put dry gas in it and still nothing I waited a couple days as the weather was warming up and still won’t fire up then I tried starter fluid still won’t start. I looked in the engine bay an notice the vacuum line that is on the driver side that goes into the engine and also splits off and a small vacuum line that goes to the fender wall it was disconnected to the engine I reconnected it with hoping maybe it was something that dumb but still won’t start so now I’m thinking it could be something spark related maybe plugs or wires or maybe the distributor cap so I plan on replacing those but I’m also hearing it could be the head gasket?

What do you think it is or what could I try? It sounds like it wants to start but just quits but one thing I should add is after I let of the key it sputters white smoke out of the throttle body, should I do a compression test should I replace the spark plug the wires and cap? Any help is appreciated

 

First question, are there any DTC codes? Pull your dipstick and inspect oil. Don't assume the fuel pump is good because it is just replaced, new parts can fail. When you first turn your key on can you hear it go thru 2 second prime? Don't mistake the IAC sound under the hood with the pump priming. You can do a quick spark test using a test light connected to B(-) and while holding it near a plug boot, pull the boot and see if spark jumps to test light while cranking. Or if no test light, pull a spark plug, put it back in boot and ground to engine block (with air space) to check for spark. If no spark, put gas pedal to floor (clear flood mode) and crank engine while watching your tach needle closely. It should have a little bump to it. If it doesn't budge it MAY indicate a problem with your CKP sensor. If on the other hand you have spark, and no codes, I would do a fuel leakdown test (link in my signature) next.

 

I have looked at the oil it’s a little dark but I need to change the oil it’s coming up on being due, but not milky looking and my coolant level looks normal to me. I will have to get a tester light and maybe even a compression test just to eliminate them I have already pulled the wires off and unfortunately broke one so they definitely have to be replaced before I try anything else. And yes I do hear the pump humming prime that’s how I knew it was bad last time and it the rpm tach does bump a little, even if it was the fuel pump wouldn’t it still start with the starter fluid?

 

I would expect it to start at least briefly with starting fluid. But as a note I would not suggest ever using starter fluid, use carb spray instead. A couple other notes, any secondary ignition parts (plugs, wires, cap, rotor) stick with AC Delco. Costs more but these trucks are extremely finicky when it comes to secondary ignition. Same goes for fuel pumps. AC Delco or Delphi. Stay away from Airtex and other off brand pumps. Many cases on this forum when a new off-brand pump had to be replaced in a couple months. As long as you're looking at buying diagnostic tools, a digital multi-meter is really necessary. Also a capable scan tool that can read live data is extremely helpful. There are inexpensive options that connect with your phone...George, LesMyer, or others if your reading this thread would you please recommend the current best inexpensive options? Last dongle I bought years ago was BAFX but I use other scanners so I don't know current best inexpensive options.

You can get loaner compression tester and fuel pump pressure tester from auto parts store. Starter fluid or not, doesn't hurt or cost anything to run fuel pressure test. Especially if you bought off brand pump. Something to rule out.

Let us know when you've replaced ignition parts and we can go from there.

 

I got a carquest fuel pump from advance auto with lifetime warranty so if it is that I will happily return it how do I test fuel pressure? Does it hook up right to the threaded fuel valve in the engine compartment by the fire wall? And why carb cleaner over starter fluid?

 

I want to correct myself on one thing. If you do get a test lamp, connect to a solid ground on the engine block, not to B(-). Even though test lights have resistance better not to ground directly to battery when checking for spark.

EDIT: You will want an incandescent test lamp for this.

 

Look at link in my signature block for fuel pressure test. Not hard to do. There is a Schrader valve on the fuel line next to the firewall. Couple reasons for not starter fluid. Risk of fire is one, but it can also cause engine damage.