Been having a hard time finding 5w-30 conventional oil. What can I use as a replacement?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/SuperTech...Quart/54310240

 

How about 5W-30 synthetic?

 

I've considered that and/or synthetic blend. Because there's plenty of that on the shelves, but not the Walmart SuperTech with the big green "CONVENTIONAL" lable anymore.
I have concerns about leaking seals and gaskets though. I already have a rear main seal leak and I don't want to make it worst.
I've been using Lucas engine oil leak stop to help mitigate the oil loss.

 

AutoZoo in my 'hood has plenty. Just got me some today.

 

dont do that
Run Synthetic, its much better mechanically with little to no impact on seals. and never use leakstop additives, if your oil cooler isnt plugged with the stuff before too long i'd be surprised, being a leak stopper its going to get into cracks and crevices and cure when exposed to oxygen for a long while, there is air in an engine crankcase theres just not alot of it so it wont cure quickly. it may work now but the havoc down the line will make you regret it.

 

You can also run 10w-30 dino...even says so in the Owner's Manual.

 

Yeah, I read that too, but it still says 5w-30 preferred. I remember some other forum chatter that 10w-30 or 10w-40 is too thick to get into all the smaller crannies and can cause damage.

Maybe the 10w-30 is better for oil pressure? Some members here have commented that 20 PSI is too low. When the engine is hot and idling, my PSI does fall to 20. It's always been that way. When accelerating on a cold engine, PSI is at 60, then falls to 40 when it gets warmed up.

Cold low/high: 40/60
Hot low/high: 20/40

It's been very consistent like this for years.

 

Really? I had no idea the product was that harmful. I noticed it is a super thick oil, so I only added about 2oz of the stuff and I saw some pretty decent results just from that. The instructions for Lucas leakstop said 1 quart for every 4 quarts of oil. I'm certainly not adding that much at once.

I tried before a product Scotty Kilmer recommnds all the time, the ATP AT-205 Re-Seal stuff, but I didn't see results using that.

I read that synthetics are thinner, so I'm just being cautious about making the leak worst. I don't have a good opportunity short-term right now to drop the transmission to deal with that seal properly.

 

Oil weight and viscosity is the same as long as its the right rating, 5W-30 is rated 5 on a viscosity index when cold and 30 when at operating temperatures, and the rating is calculated the same way. just dont put 0w in and you're good. conventional works if you do long highway pulls for long periods of time with very short in-city or stop n go but synthetic will keep the motor alot cleaner inside.

 

I'm thinking you would be better off filtering your old oil through a couple of coffee filters and re-using it, as you don't seem you like any of the suggestions the good folks on here have given you.

Just as a note, I have 300,000 miles on my engine, which has never been opened up. I have ran 5w-30 every winter, 10w-30 every summer. I have only put in dino oil since the day I bought it new way back in Oct 2000, and have changed the oil and filter every 3000 miles. The engine still runs strong, smooth and quiet.

But, hey, to each their own.