I drive my 98 Blazer about 3x/week on short errands mostly. The dash shows a "Security" light when it is not running. I read the owner's manual and see no need to spend $$$ right now to fix it. After some drained/dead battery incidents (the alternator is fine), I now disconnect the neg (-) terminal's battery cable when I park it at home and re-connect it next time I take a drive. This "solution" is a lot easier when you have a post-type battery instead of the side-terminal type in the Blazers as there are devices sold everywhere that attach to the posts and, with a twist of the ****, you have disconnected the battery. (Boaters, motorcyclists, and classic car owners (like me) know all about them. I have searched the auto supply stores, asked around and searched the 'net but no one seems to know any source for a similar device that will do the same thing for side terminal battery setups. I did see semi-expensive solutions involving a switch one mounts in the cab but this seemed a little extreme and might be beyond my DIY skill level.

Question? Any members know where I might find a dis-connect device that is designed to work with side-terminal batteries???

Ummm. OK. Related Question: The bolt that screws into my battery and holds the cable in place is wearing out somewhat. Of course, it's designed NOT to pop out of the rest of the cable 'coz, if it did, why would you buy the expensive, entirely new cable, right? So ... anyone know how to pop out the bolt without making a complete mess of the protective covering??

Thanks!

 

These things will change the battery over to post terminals: Taylor 20664 Taylor Battery Cables & Accessories

You'll need to change the battery cable end over as well. Then you can install your shut off switch. Just an idea

As for the rubber boot, remove the bolt and the boot slides right off.

 

Update for the battery bolt: I found replacement side-terminal-style, battery cable connectors/bolts for about $2.50/pair at Advance Auto. This told me that the old, worn bolt must be removeable somehow from my existing cable. Turns out, I just wasn't pushing hard enough! Basically amounts to pushing a nickle-size washer thru a dime-size opening. Guess I was afraid of breaking it. My rubber casing surrounding the old bolt was still pretty flexible. If yours is hardened, you may need to cut slits into it to get it out. To get the new one in, I used a tiny, flat screwdriver to lift the rubber over a small section while pushing/twisting the bolt at the same time. Like trying to get a bicycle tire on or off the rim. Took about 5 minutes. Pretty easy really. Would probably take about 1 minute now that I know how.

 

i have the "killswitch" on my battery... idk why it was there.. debating wether to keep it or throw it away