The point of the kit is it improves the upper ball joints and keeps them at a decent angle. It also lowers the diff to keep the CV angles at a decent angle as well.

RC 2.5" Lift is FAR superior to just a Tbar crank. It also comes with all new shocks, so if your front end is wearing out and could also use new shocks, by the time you replace all that, you've covered most of the cost of the lift.

 

T-Bar cranking is definitely not the best idea but it is the cheapest (at first) i just cranked mine up and 5 miles later my PS CV boot slipped off spraying its grease everywhere. i still need to replace that.. Along with all my ball joints and just about every end link now lol

 

You can see the shackle just behind the leaf spring in that photo

 

The t bar crank sounds like an decent
option. I am going to look into that for my own ride. I think I am going to a another full leaf to my sagging back end too. Do you think that would all jive together?

 

Does this help?

 

I am very happy with my Rough Country lift. I replaced all the bushings with ones from Prothane or Energy Suspension (even the new ones that came pre-installed in the RC upper control arm) for max flex. Also while everything was off I replaced the CV axles and the lower ball joints.

I was riding high and level until I mounted the grill guard/winch. Now the front sags about 1.5 inches . I just picked up some ZR2 Tbars and keys today hoping to recover the loss. Even with the sagging front we have taken the Jimmy on Slaughterhouse Loop above Denver (see www.traildamage.com) and she performed awesome. As soon as I get some skid plates on it (just in case) we will be looking for some class 6 and 7 trails to play on. All without a body lift and super large, gas sucking tires.

Also, just so you know, the plastic body trim on the aft side of the front fenders interferes with 31 inch tires on the Jimmy. The next smaller size works fine for me.

 

Iv been posting on a lot of threads I have an 05 blazer 2door
and I want to get a 2 -3" out of it t- bar crank
sounds to me a bad idea. Body lift or a full suspention lift are the
only things I see that are possible, with a body
lift u have to extend hoses and wires and
a bunch of other stuff right? Need help

 

There's not that much that needs extending with a body left, instructions are available online. Find some and read through them and that should give you a better idea of what's involved.

 

unless it comes with the diff lowering brackets dont bother with it. i installed a 2inch lift at work on a s10 blazer and it over extended everything. the cv joints were so maxed out the boots were coming off and spraying grease. also ran into all sorts of other problems, the new A arms had to be trimmed down as they were hitting and depressing the caliper on full turns causing the brake pedal to go to the floor.

what a piece of crap that lift was, forgot who made it though. i would just do a 3 inch body lift, leave the suspension alone. i know there people out there who have had some luck with these lifts but theres also people who tow 10,000lbs with a 1/2 ton and havent wrecked yet or people who offroad with 44 inch tires with 10 bolt axles

 

I don't have alot of money I'm only 17 so what would be the best a body lift or suspension? I don't really like body lifts cuz I live in Illinois and having a gap between my frame and body rust is an issue any suggestions????