I learned that my 2003 Chevy Blazer has a distributor that auto mfg. were getting away from in the 1980's. It cost about $250 this January to replace. Why is GM a whopping 20 years on behind?

 

$250... Did that come with lube? You overpaid by A LOT!

The 4.3L v6 is a truck engine that remained relatively unchanged in the short block from '85 thru '09. The reason for keeping with the distributor was because they just work. Most distributor failures on these trucks are a result of improper installation after work is done (cmp retard being off causing the driven gear to get chewed up).

The new version of the 4.3L v6 used as the base engine for the 2014 fullsize line, RPO code LV3, is a direct injected engine with continuously variable valve timing, cylinder deactivation, and coil near plug ignition system.

Could they have changed sooner, sure. But to knock it because you had to replace it on an 11 year old vehicle and got reamed in the process seems a bit much.

As far as the distributor being antiquated, hardly.

 

swartlkk Tell me where I can go to a good mechanic and not have to pay list price for parts. Sure I realize I can go to a auto parts store or on the internet and get the parts a lot cheaper. I am not as handy with tearing thing apart, or else I could replace my intake manifold gasket for $50, instead of $500 at the mechanic. My dad has told me to bring your own part to a garage is unethical, and if you have the garage to diagnose the problem, well them you don't know what parts to get and the garage wouldn't like your vehicle sitting there till you get them a part and a lot have policies that you cannot bring your own part. swartlkk would you charge that much for a distributor to a customer in your garage? As far as I can see, although they work, they are antiquated. My uncles 1991 Ford Ranger with a 4.0 v6 does not have a distributor.

 

You could go buy a Ford and find new things to complain about...

Complaining about the systems used in a vehicle you own is just silly in my humble opinion.

As far as antiquated...now if we were talking about an old points style distributor, then I would definitely call that antiquated. The ignition system used in these trucks is pretty advanced for what it is. While not up to the DIS systems used in other vehicles, I would still consider it just as reliable provided the people working on it are knowledgeable enough to get it installed properly.

Listen, I understand your frustration with getting bent over at the mechanic, but unless you change your situation (get the initiative to fix your vehicle yourself) you will continue to get taken advantage of, regardless of the vehicle. That is where this forum comes in. We can help you through pretty much any repair on your truck if you decide to take that path.

I don't run a repair business, but changing out the distributor and setting the CMP Retard should take less than an hour for a competent mechanic. I just don't see $250 given the time & the cost of the part.

 

Haha, good one. This is like asking why our trucks run leaf springs ... or push rods. Hell, you wanna talk antiquated...they're hundred of years old. Oh and BTW, Ford probably stole that wasted spark DIS ignition setup from mazda in the 90's, so don't think they had any great ideas no one else knew about. lol.

 

what do I need to do to feel more comfortable to tackle more complicated repairs. What should I buy?

 

If you really want to dive in, you'll need a decent set of hand tools to start. You may very well end up spending more than $250 for a good, thorough set of tools (combination wrenches, shallow/deep sockets, multimeter, etc), but the satisfaction you get out of repairing your vehicle yourself and the money you will save down the road will be WELL worth it!

Start with changing you oil & servicing the axles (if it hasn't been done before). Move up to brakes. Then on to more in-depth projects. Once you start, it gets easier. There is a learning curve, but nothing is really all that complex if you break things down.

There isn't a tool in my garage that I regret buying. Even if I only used it once to-date, it still didn't cost as much as what it would have been going to a mechanic; even one that I trust.

A good manual is also a must. If you like printed manuals, Helm Inc is the publisher for the dealer manuals. You can find factory service manuals on eBay from time to time at drastically reduced prices. If you have a laptop you can use out in the garage/driveway, then AllDataDIY.com is an option. I still have my AllData subscription for my old 2000 Bravada, 2004 Rainier, 2004 Tahoe, 2001 Bonneville, as well as a number of subscriptions for vehicles owned by family and friends. I also have several factory service manuals covering each of my vehicles mentioned above and a few for other vehicles. I get FSMs whenever I see a deal on them.

 

The most important help Is the internet, specifically blazerforum.com

 

Thanks for the info. The one thing that I would also included is confidence. Back to the antiquated distributor, not to pit Ford vs. Chevy, but I wondered really why GM stuck with the distributor till 2007 on the 4.3 v6. There is probably other antiquated things done and yes, I see Fords getting worked on. So to be fair, my old work vcan 1999 Ford E-150 Cargo that got replaced last year, its headlight switch was the pull out type and you turn it to turn on the interior lights and dim the dash lights. Remember when most vehicles from the 1970's had them.

 

Bringing your own parts to a mechanic is NOT unethical at all. Them charging you a 300% markup is unethical, and yes that is what they do in most shops, at least 200% and as much as 400%, depending on the part and what kind of vehicle its for. For example, a 2001 Jaguar uses the exact same brake parts as a similar year Ford Taurus and Lincoln LS. Guess which model of those three is the cheapest to buy parts for? Yet the parts are identical... Try a side window for a Porsche Cayenne... then match it up to a Volkswagen Touareg and cry at the parts difference. Same window. Same manufacturer. Same part number. Porsche part is 3x the price.

The point is, you are at a mechanics shop to pay for their service on fixing your vehicle, and they are already charging you $80-100/hr for that. When you let them buy the parts, yes you are paying them for their time on the phone, but for the most part you are handing them fistfuls of dollars they didn't really do any work for.

What will burn you is a) YOU misdiagnose the problem first, so parts get replaced for nothing b) the part fails, you are on the hook for the warranty replacement and for reinstalling the new part (even if the part THEY supply fails, they may get the replacement part but you may still have to pay the labour again anyways)

It is a risk that you as the customer have to judge to be worth it or not.

Did you get an ***-raping? The mechanic paid under $100 for the part. Add an hour's labour and taxes, and it doesn't even sound that ridiculous for a shop price. Regardless, unless you know all about your vehicle, you will always be at the mercy of the mechanic.

Best advice? Yup, learn how to do it yourself. Buy a decent set of tools. You don't need snap-on, a good set of husky, craftsman, even a higher end (not the cheapie bargain ones) set of Pittsburgs will get you going as a beginner. With a coupon they have a 301 piece kit on sale right now at HF for $153.99, guarenteed forever tools not the disposable ones.


You will never regret learning about cars... take nightschool if you need to. I grew up in the garage, then took it in high school and some extra night classes. Today I do 95% or more of my own work at home. The only reason I have to farm anything out these days is because I am self employed and sometimes there is more work than I can get done quickly enough.

Best of luck to ya...!