I was able to get the middle, drivers side plug out with a 3/8 universal socket...no steering box removal....HAVE PATIENCE !!!!!!!!

 

Well I owned a 1987 Jimmy 4x4 from 1990-2006. The only problem I had with it was vacuum lines rotting out, and with a 2.8 v-6 the intake gasket ( I think that is what I remember) had to be replaced several times. Now I owned this jimmy for 16 years put 180,000 miles on it. If it didn't need a new tranny, engine, and all front end parts I would have kept it.

with my 99 Blazer. lets see here are some problems I am haveing with it.
-I pull on the hood release, it pops but the hood won't release.
-power mirrors won't work.
-other than the list of things I got from the mechanic which he said was normal wear and tear with 160,000 miles I can't think of anything else. I had great luck with my 87 and i hope to have the same luck with my 99.

 

1. DexCrap still need to get it flushed I got most out...
2. Rattles.... I will be sound proofing the whole cab eventually
3. Top rear brake light gets water in it so will need to replace that soon.
4. Rust - normal I guess just hate seeing it.
5. Will need a new exhaust soon (thinking stainless along with headers )

Had the car since april 23 08, Already did rotor,cap,wires,plugs,(easier than you guys make it out to be), thermostat. Im @ 105K on stock balljoints which I am doing the whole front end after i move in 14 days. Othen than that she is a great truck and with the 3k miles i put on her in 1.5 months no problems.

Previous owner replaced the spider injector/ac compressor so Im set on that for a whole.

 

ya i have the same problem
i just watch the trip and the fuel used computer thing (vary accurate for me so far) ya 18 gallon tank and i used 15 gallons and needle is at half but when it is full the needle is at full. and when it is really low it show full some times then when i start going form a stop it speeds over the the E and the low fuel light goes on.

my old blazer 93 4d 2wd with 226,000+ miles on it and it sat for 3 years.. the power for the power button for the radio was touchy, and it wont spray wind shield fluid in the rear. and the dash lights go out. and when it is wet out it get moister in the engine and bogs down at more then half throttle. The button on the door the turns the lights off when closed on the door it rust out then grounds out then lights wont go off. gas tanks rust out 14 years old
nothing rally wrong with the optional things...other then the fluid wont spray. power locks,key less entry, power windows,power seat, power lumbar.

and some more thing the pass side wind shield wiper on the far right does not contact the glass.
and i have to say i love it!i would like to see a foreign car do what a American vehicle can do.
and some i don't get is "you want foreign cars" but American tools???

 

Three letters for 1st gens: EGR.
oh and a loose rear window

 

1st generation...EGR valve and SES light?
Sollution:
Get on the open road or freeway and drive yourS/T10 Blazer like you were mad at it. Do that fortwenty miles per month.Then theSES will quit appearingand the ECM will quit throwing the infamous Code 32 due to carbon fouling. Hard driving (80+ MPH) frees up the pentle in the EGR valve anditquits sendingproblem signals to the ECM.

Troublesome #3 spark plug?
Solution:
Use AC Delco Rapidfire #1(GM-25164639) spark plugs. At least you will not have to change plugs for 60,000 miles. If you have aoil burner or do a lot of slow stop and godriving,use AC Delco Rapidfire #2 (GM-25164640) spark plugs which are hotter. Sure, Tightwad, the Rapidfire plugs aremore expensive but you don't have to change them as often. They are especiallydesignedfor"inaccessable" spark plugs on modern vehicles. They replace AC CR43TS and AC CR45TS respectively.

 

uh lets see

-Passenger Seat lever broken (been replaced)
-hood must be slapped to pop up
-tranny went out but got one with 10k miles less than the engine
-drivers door panel doesn't like to stay popped into place. rattles like heck
-drivers door doesnt seem to latch closed all the way. i can see light from the inside to the outside. hinge pin bushing is messed up too
-passenger doors hinge pin bushing is totally messed up so door sags down making it really hard to close
-fluctuating fuel gauge
-almost "popping" noise when wheel is cranked all the way left or right

theres prolly a lil more just cant remember


but i still love my truck

 

As a general rule, the S/T-10 Chevrolet Blazersaredelicate, highmaintenence vehicles. I cannot understand why they would ever beconsideredfor "off-road" use.

My '91 Blazer may be anexception. I was given my '91 Blazer by my daughter and she bught it new in Seattle Washington andkept it in perfect condition for 18 years.It was seldomdrivenfaster than50 MPH except when she drove it from Seattle to Dallas early last spring when she delivered it to me.I suspect that is the main reason for the occasional EGR Code 32 SES light.I am still being amazed at the originality and good condition of the damned thing. The body and black paint is perfect and everything worksas it should except the EGR and I have fixed the old Code 32problem by driving as I previously wrote.Black paint is the most difficult color to maintain.I am replacing itemsnot because they are bad or don't work, I replace somepartsjust because they are 18 years oldand are due for retirement.

Next on my "things to do" list are theOEM AC Delco shocks. The OEM shocksapparently are still workingperfectly but they aredirty.

The rear passenger door seals came loose andIreplaced them with a new ones. The OEM seals are two piece (made by the UAW) and will separate. The replacement seals are moulded in one piece (made in China). You must keep the door sealsmessagedwith asilicone compound to prevent them from sticking to the doors.

 

My wife had to have our 97 S10 Blazer 4dr, 4wd. I HATE this truck. Here is my list:

I just put on the 5th altenator and the bearing is already noisy
replaced ac compressor
#3 plug is a B**** to replace
warps the rotors after about 10 months of driving (probably the wife's driving....lol)
gas gauge is never correct unless the truck is full
replaced intake gasket
replaced water pump, flushed out Dex-cool and went to regular green anti freeze
windshield wiper control board
key will not come out of the ignition switch from time to time
replaced the ignition switch twice. 1st time it wouldn't crank every time, second time it wasn't sending power to the transmission and it was stuck in third gear
replaced both remote oil filter lines. replaced the lines from the engine to the filter twice
transmission started shifting really hard, hadthe valvebody replaced in the tranmission
the rear drivers side electric window switch is bad

This list does not include regular maintanance. It's got 127,000 miles on it. I hate the way it drives. I got a 98 S10 2wd pickup truck with 112, 000 on it andthere is no camparison between the 2. I can't wait to get rid of the thing.

 

* Top of steering wheel losing rubberized coating.

* Power mirror switch started to operate sporatically, but now, not at all because rain falls directly on it.

* HEADLIGHTS not bright enough on 95-97 models

Ive had these problems too, working on fixing them. Another thing i've noticed, not only with my blazer but my previous chev truck was when opening the hood it didn't fully pop so you'd have to drum on it a couple times until you hit the "sweet spot" and then it'd pop open.