New favorite repair to hate: engine mount
It has been a long time since I have been this frustrated with doing a repair on my Blazer. Ugh.
Trying to get those bolts to the block aligned took me forever.
Thankfully it is now done.

Trying to get those bolts to the block aligned took me forever.
Thankfully it is now done.
George,
Hmm, you mean besides lots of swearing at the engineers??
For one thing, a15mm, flex head, ratcheting combination wrench was indispensable for the lower mount-to-block bolt. I had to use 3/8" drive u-joint on my socket wrench to get the top bolts out.
A challenge was I didn't want to raise the engine more than needed which made it hard to have enough room. Eventually I had to raise it so that the bottom of the exhaust manifold was equal in height to the top mounting bolt for the shock.
With the engine lifted, it was hard to hold the heat shield and new mount in place and line up the bolt. I tried holding the mount in place with a prybar held in place with a spring clamp.
I think installing the front top bolt first was a bit easier. I tried it so many ways, I can't be sure what worked, but coming in from front/below might have worked. I had removed the idler arm to do other work which made that approach easier.
I also had to unbolt the transmission mount because the engine slipped rearward. Even with a prybar I could not get it to shift enough. Unbolting the transmission mount allowed this. The 15mm flex head ratcheting combination wrench was super helpful here too. To get the bolts on the transmission back in, I had to lift it at the transfer case a bit.
With all of these things supported by jacks, I was super careful of not putting my fingers in places where they could get caught or at least from where I could pull them out fast!
This video helped, but made it look a lot easier than it was. LOL
Hmm, you mean besides lots of swearing at the engineers??

For one thing, a15mm, flex head, ratcheting combination wrench was indispensable for the lower mount-to-block bolt. I had to use 3/8" drive u-joint on my socket wrench to get the top bolts out.
A challenge was I didn't want to raise the engine more than needed which made it hard to have enough room. Eventually I had to raise it so that the bottom of the exhaust manifold was equal in height to the top mounting bolt for the shock.
With the engine lifted, it was hard to hold the heat shield and new mount in place and line up the bolt. I tried holding the mount in place with a prybar held in place with a spring clamp.
I think installing the front top bolt first was a bit easier. I tried it so many ways, I can't be sure what worked, but coming in from front/below might have worked. I had removed the idler arm to do other work which made that approach easier.
I also had to unbolt the transmission mount because the engine slipped rearward. Even with a prybar I could not get it to shift enough. Unbolting the transmission mount allowed this. The 15mm flex head ratcheting combination wrench was super helpful here too. To get the bolts on the transmission back in, I had to lift it at the transfer case a bit.
With all of these things supported by jacks, I was super careful of not putting my fingers in places where they could get caught or at least from where I could pull them out fast!
This video helped, but made it look a lot easier than it was. LOL
Bought a set of these years ago https://jagsthatrun.com/products/s-1...trucks-blazers Removes the terrible design and won't break again. Had them in for years with no further issues.
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