Reasons to NEVER EVER use rad. stop leak!!!!
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 77

Ok, heres the situation. Just bought a 94 2wd 4.3 w code. Was told (and I quote) " Just replace the fuel pump and it'll run perfectly" (bullsh*t!!). After replacing the fuel pump, plugs, cap & rotor, it finally fired up but runs like sh*t. While it was running, I noticed the volt gauge dont work (mental note, take alt. to store to check). Noticed the vac. lines were beyond shot.... Add that to the list of things to buy. Check the rad., bone azzed dry. Open a new bottle of coolant and start pouring. As fast as I can pour coolant in, it pisses out the water pump AND the rad. petcock (removed by the p/o and never put back)!! Great, a gallon of coolant on the ground. Add those to the list of stuff to buy. Go to the parts store and buy everything ($105 later). Start pulling everything off the truck. Removed the upper hose and noticed more than normal corrosion in the thermostat housing. I'm a curious type so I pull that off. Sure enough, THE WHOLE FRIGGIN HOUSING AND STAT ARE PACKED FULL OF STOP LEAK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! GGGGGGGGGGRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 


:icon _no:
Pics to follow. Turns out (from my professional diagnosis) the p/o drove the truck hot and noticed the water pump crapped out so he packed the cooling system full of stop leak. When that didnt work, he parked the truck and let it sit for 5 years. When he finally got back to the poor truck, the fuel pump shellacked up. So he FINALLY got a GOOD idea and sold the truck to someone who actually had half a brain cell in their head and who knew what was wrong and how to fix it RIGHT (me).
Sorry for the long rant but I simply had to vent to a group that would understand and know where I'm coming from.
Current tally: $800 and I still havent even driven the truck!!!!!!
Sorry for the long rant but I simply had to vent to a group that would understand and know where I'm coming from.
Current tally: $800 and I still havent even driven the truck!!!!!!
#3
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 77

No, didnt pay that much, $500. But now I'm REALLY pissed because I was trying to put the new petcock in and the radiator cracked. Only saving grace (if there is any) is the new rad. will cost me $110 instead of $160. Down side, I had to sell my brand new in the box welder (cost $300) for $125 to cover the new rad.!!! I sure would like to ring the ******* p/o's neck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
EDIT: the $500 was what I bought the truck for, add $400 for the parts, then add $175 I lost on the welder, add another $80 for the title transfer, who knows what the registration is gonna be, thats comes to a total of over $1100 invested into something I cant even drive yet. And thats just to get it on the road. Plus the tires will need replaced soon and since I cant drive it, who knows if the suspension is any good or if theres anything else wrong.
EDIT: the $500 was what I bought the truck for, add $400 for the parts, then add $175 I lost on the welder, add another $80 for the title transfer, who knows what the registration is gonna be, thats comes to a total of over $1100 invested into something I cant even drive yet. And thats just to get it on the road. Plus the tires will need replaced soon and since I cant drive it, who knows if the suspension is any good or if theres anything else wrong.
Last edited by AuSSenseiter; 12-11-2010 at 04:48 PM. Reason: Added info
#5
Since this thread was brought back, any luck on the truck?
#6
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 77

eh, some but its STILL not drivable. To date I've replaced the fuel pump, filter, water pump, t-stat, hoses, rad., plugs, wires, oil, filter, and probably more. When it had 5 year old gas (about half a gallon) diluted with 2 gallons of fresh it fired up but sounded like it had a dead cylinder. So I took out the old fuel filter and pumped out all the old gas. Put the new filter in and added 5 gallons of fresh mid-grade mixed with a little Lucas injector cleaner & upper system lube. Now the b*tch doesnt want to fire up at all (drained 3 batteries trying!!!).
One thing I noticed while trying to start it was a hissing sound coming from the intake after we stopped cranking. So I'm wondering if the fuel pressure regulator is bad. If its not one f'ing thing its another.
One thing I noticed while trying to start it was a hissing sound coming from the intake after we stopped cranking. So I'm wondering if the fuel pressure regulator is bad. If its not one f'ing thing its another.
#8
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 77

bigkhans, The vac. lines are all new. The hissing problem turned out to be a bad cpi injector setup. More money down the drain for something I cant drive yet. If this truck wasnt gonna be a Christmas present for my momma, I would have torched it long ago!!!
#9
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 77

Gotta give some love to my friends at Advance Auto Parts. Here's some real time prices for ya on the cpi crap: Autozone= $389.29 (yikes! even if it was in stock). Advance retail= $322.89. Advance commercial= $260. Since I've been buying everything Advance had in their store for this truck $200. So today I go in and humbly beg (literally) for them to give me the absolute lowest price their computer would allow and they kept trying new lower prices. Finally they came up with a total of $185.50 for the injector AND plenum gasket!!! Now I just need $30 more to foot this bill.
Please keep your fingers crossed that I can come up with the money & this will FINALLY be the end of my headaches with this truck.
Please keep your fingers crossed that I can come up with the money & this will FINALLY be the end of my headaches with this truck.
#10
Aint that the truth!!! Mines starting to crap out on me again, after i dumped over 400 into already. But its my baby and it'll all be worth it in the end.. just keep telling yourself that. it will all be worth it in the end.





