I only got 1 penny for 1 thought - Does it need replaced or Not.

I think you have misdiagnosed my purpose for my as you called "experiment" ...

...the reason I am doing this is to find out if I need a certain part replaced or not, no other reason...

One shop says yes One says no....so not having a main shop in over 10 years, I need to get a matched answer on a certain part needing replacement such as 4 or 5 out of 8 shops says replace = I accept - it needs replaced. It's called consensus "general agreement.."

I don't have a attitude, I have a blazer needing repairs. I tell all the shops the same thing and joke around with them to get to know them, otherwise they may screw with my vehicle while they have it ...if I was a attitude case.

If I could work on it myself I would, but after a back injury tying to save a 350 block from hitting the ground, I no longer can perform certain tasks.

 

Most of the threads in this forum will start with a description of a symptom and the responses explain testing procedures to determine the cause. A correct diagnosis is the hardest step in repair work. If we can help you find out if a part is bad yourself, all your mechanic needs to know is righty tighty lefty loosey. Election years remind me of the ignorance of the majority.

 

Well said Rusty Nuts.

 

When that works, it's really good. When that fails, it usually goes really badly for the vehicle owner.

Here's how I found a good shop for my sister who lives in another state. First, I went to Napa's main web site. At the bottom, there's a "Find an Autocare Center" button. I put her location in and find the nearest ones. You might want to click the "See more stores" button to get a dozen or so choices. After noting the ones that were closest to my sister's location, I also looked for the Napa Auto Parts store closest to those shops. I called them and asked who handled the commercial accounts. Usually, there's a commercial accounts rep who works with repair shops, dealerships and body shops and services accounts for several Napa store locations. Call that rep and see if they will tell you which shops have the highest CSI (customer satisfaction index) scores. Some reps will talk to you about that, some won't. It doesn't hurt to ask. You can get by without that information if they won't tell you.

Now, start calling shops on the list. Talk to the manager/owner, and nobody else. Ask if they participate in Napa's CSI program (you want a shop that does), and if technician pay is based at least partly (bonuses) on CSI scores. If they will tell you, you'd also like to know if they pay their techs by salary, or by hours shown in a "flat rate labor time guide." When I called for my sister, it helped that I was an ASE Certified Master Technician. I actually said I was considering moving to the area and potentially looking for a job. If that doesn't work for you, you might say your (brother/cousin/nephew/sister/neice) is ASE certified and may be moving to the area or something.

The "Napa Autocare Center" shops have the advantage of offering a nationwide warranty, and Napa warranties the parts and will not only replace defective parts, but if you get a defective part, Napa will pay the shop the labor to replace the defective part. That's important.

The CSI program has obvious benefits to the customer.

Shops that pay salaries plus bonus based on higher CSI scores and/or lower non-warranty return rates (unsatisfied "come backs") generally get things fixed right the first time and take fewer shortcuts than shops that pay only by "flat rate hours." Shops that pay bonuses on top of flat rate hours are a little better, but not as good as shops that pay salaries plus CSI/performance bonuses.

I am not affiliated with Napa in any way, although I have worked in the past at a Napa Autocare Center.

Going back to Rusty's point, if you do the diagnosis yourself (with or without help from "some guy on the Internet"), you are responsible for misdiagnosed problems. If you take it to the shop and say, "replace this part," or "perform that adjustment procedure," the shop will usually do what you asked for. It might or might not fix the problem you're having. If the repair doesn't resolve the problem, that's not the shop's fault.

If you take it to the shop and say, "It's shaking real bad" and they diagnose it and repair it, and it still shakes after the repair, that's on the shop for misdiagnosing the problem. How you work that out with the shop is between you and the shop. With a nationwide program like the "Napa Autocare Centers," at least if you get to an impasse with one shop, you might be able to get warranty service from another participating shop.

 

So you're taking an opinion poll, and hoping the answer you get is correct.

Seems to me, since we're dealing with machinery with actual specifications for wear limits and maximum play, that using a dial indicator and taking the proper measurements and comparing those to the manufacturer's stated wear limits would be the way to get an answer that is correct and not just a "consensus opinion."

If you don't want to do it yourself, pay someone to make the measurements. Find someone who has the correct tools (dial indicator is most important here) and knows how to use those tools and make the measurements, then pay them to make the measurements and report the results to you.

Anything worn over factory specified limits must be replaced. If there are symptoms and concerns when driving, in my opinion (others might disagree here), anything over half the factory specified wear limits probably should be replaced. If everything is less than half the wear limits, and there are still symptoms, you've either overlooked something or maybe you're just very picky. In that case, check anything else that might be involved and cause the problem (for example, wheel bearings can cause shaking, vibration, and sometimes "loose feeling steering") until you find the problem.

Nobody is going to do the work to measure everything for free, though. It's work to get the right answer, and work earns compensation.

 

Not picky at all, didn't tell them any specific part, said there was play in steering and just asked what needs replaced immediately for safety concern. Then let me know other suggested items like flush service etc.

I didn't care if one thing needed replaced or ten things, just wanted immediate attention items identified, I never crawled under truck to look at anything until today (-see below).

Today I got my answer:... Midas... (who i used in past back east)

1. The Serv Mgr asked if I could stay and walk through inspection with him. ....**That was a HUGE bonus - No one else offered before or after insp..****

2. Himself and tech showed me every part,.. the testing.. like- shaking the tire at 3 & 9... 12 & 6 position twist/shake with ur hands -probably a technical name for it but I don't know it.).

3. Visual and explained the part and its failure....very thorough inspection.

4. Made me out quotes based on need first, second...etc

5. We were talking about GM Parts direct, and Rock Auto, He said If I wanted to get my own parts he would install them.

and then when I didn't think it could get better...The Cake Topping.....

6.....He actually went through the groups of front end parts with me making a plan based on adjusted labor for doing same section items.
for example - Replacing upper & Lower control arms,.. bushings.. & ball joints, the torn leaking axel. ..
(Instead of individual labor chg on each item, since all parts taken off while doing those items he grouped a lower labor rate by 35% +...hope I explained this right...well at least I get it....SAVINGS...Lol..)

SO TODAY the first $ 1050.00 of my restore project is underway....

Attached is the final summary showing how many shops suggested a part replacement on the right,...

So when I reached 3 or more shop suggestions on a single line item I also agreed and now the items in yellow are what is being done today and tomorrow.