Reviving My '91 S-15 Jimmy
I am going to bring my '91 Jimmy out of mothballs and need to find a good place to source parts. Years ago, LMC Truck was my go-to but they don't seem to be what they once were. What suggestions are there for quality parts for this thing? For starters, I'm looking at the power lock switch (not the actuator) for the driver's door and the gas springs for the rear hatch. I prefer to avoid Dorman at all costs, whenever possible.
Thanks
Thanks
I have been keeping my 89 S15 Jimmy alive and in good repair. My sources are everywhere I can locate pars. Ebay for New Old Stock (Search NOS in the Title) Ebay for used parts as well, Local U-Pull It salvage yard for used OEM parts. {Especially for OEM Hardware, Interior parts), Rock Auto, Amazon, Auto Parts Stores & LMC. I have no problem with Doorman parts. Sometimes Doorman is the only one supplying the part I need.
For your switch I would pull it from a local junk yard or search ebay for NOS or used. The problem with the junkyards is that used first generation S10/S15 vehicles are getting scarce. For my Jimmy the S10's are the same from the cab forward. The trucks are different from the cab rearward. My Jimmy has been down for 2 years since I pulled the engine. The engine is built, Installed and is running. I mitigated any rust rear frame rails and coated with POR 15. I blasted frame rails and coated with chassis paint. Undercoated the underside with 3M Rubberized Undercoated. While the engine was out, I painted the firewall, blasted the Hood, Fenders and Outer fenders followed by paint.
For your switch I would pull it from a local junk yard or search ebay for NOS or used. The problem with the junkyards is that used first generation S10/S15 vehicles are getting scarce. For my Jimmy the S10's are the same from the cab forward. The trucks are different from the cab rearward. My Jimmy has been down for 2 years since I pulled the engine. The engine is built, Installed and is running. I mitigated any rust rear frame rails and coated with POR 15. I blasted frame rails and coated with chassis paint. Undercoated the underside with 3M Rubberized Undercoated. While the engine was out, I painted the firewall, blasted the Hood, Fenders and Outer fenders followed by paint.
A couple of things on the top of my list that I'll need help with:
Driver's door is binding somehow and I can't see how. Opening from the inside isn't too bad because I can throw my shoulder into it and shove it open but opening from the outside is tougher. I get it cracked a hair with the handle then get my fingers in the crevice and pull it open out of fear that I'll break the door handle. I have read about hinge sag but could it apply to me here?
And the steering column has a lot of play at the hinge where it's adjustable. It's mostly up and down play with a little on side to side. Any tips on what to hunt for on this?
Thanks,
Mark
Driver's door is binding somehow and I can't see how. Opening from the inside isn't too bad because I can throw my shoulder into it and shove it open but opening from the outside is tougher. I get it cracked a hair with the handle then get my fingers in the crevice and pull it open out of fear that I'll break the door handle. I have read about hinge sag but could it apply to me here?
And the steering column has a lot of play at the hinge where it's adjustable. It's mostly up and down play with a little on side to side. Any tips on what to hunt for on this?
Thanks,
Mark
First thing I would check is the hinges, if it's rusty or binding from sag it should look pretty obvious/leave wear marks. Secondly, check your door spring, I have always been nervous of those coming loose. Lastly, the little grabber thing in the hole that locks the door can bind and needs grease sometimes. I'd check the door lug for wear and when you open the door push down on the grabber, see if it moves. Mines really warn out and causing me similar though less severe issues, if need be I can go take a pic.
-91GM
GM Tilt columns are notable for the bolts working loose. You have to take the column apart to at least get a 3 of the 4 bolts and add locktite. to them. I had this issue in my Jimmy and I had a shop fixed it over 10 years ago and it has not worked it way loose again.
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/cc...column-repair/
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/cc...column-repair/
Moving right along here...The door issue was caused by the post that the latch hooks to, needing another shim underneath it. I don't understand how that could occur but it did. Encountered one small snafu when the nut on the back of it dropped down into the post and I had to fish it back up with a magnet. The magnet I had was not strong enough but a shiny new one from Lowe's made short work of it.
I looked at that the steering column info and I guess it'll be coming up shortly. It looks tedious so I'm sure I'll be talking to it.
Thanks for the help.
I looked at that the steering column info and I guess it'll be coming up shortly. It looks tedious so I'm sure I'll be talking to it.
Thanks for the help.
Dowload and print out the document below. It is detailed breakdown on GM Tilt Column.
https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/...ck_Rebuild.pdf
https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/...ck_Rebuild.pdf
Dowload and print out the document below. It is detailed breakdown on GM Tilt Column.
https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/...ck_Rebuild.pdf
https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/...ck_Rebuild.pdf
I do not know. I like to keep things stock. If it annoys you do away with it. The document saved me more than once. I just had to replace the collar around the turn signal housing along with the High Beam Actuator. I would have been lost as well that document.



