Blendgate actuator removed for repair or replace

 

My Odometer recently failed at 475805 and I had a spare dash cluster so I removed the Odometer with the Speedometer mount from the cluster. I had never worked or messed with an odometer before. I removed the odometer/trip meter from the plastic mounting base from the spare dash cluster. I tried just setting the miles and re-inserting the number wheel back into the housing. It was impossible to set the numbers and have all the wheels index properly on not lock up. I watched how the Trip Meter Indexed every time when the numbers were set to Zero when pushing re-set button. With all of the numbers lined up on Zero the wide cogs on the index wheels had to drop in at the slot in between the number 7 in each wheel. I was able to advance the numbers from zero by removing the idle gear and drive motor from the mount and using a socket and drill motor on the drive gear advance the numbers very rapidly. It took me a while but I advanced the odometer to the current mileage and I was able to successfully transplant the replacement odometer into my existing dash cluster. All the numbers line up perfectly and advance as they should and the trip meter resets to zero each and every time. (I used a Metrinch Socket that loosely fit over the drive gear and it did not damage the plastic gear teeth at all) The wide cogs for the trip meter drop in at the number 6 each time the numbers are reset. Each Cog has alternate wide and narrow teeth.

 

How much did the headlights cost?

 

Me? If so, $225 for the pair. I've decided I'm not going to keep them, though.

 

Whoa! Too much for me.

 

Not sure why they were 200 bucks. they are just the 3 prong h4 bulbs right? if so they are all over ebay for 40 bucks. Not dissin ya, just sayin.

My blazer is on the end of its day engine wise. I need to figure out what im going to do. Im hoping itll last till tax time. then either a v8 swap as i originally intended too since i already have everything but the long block or im going to buy another one and use it for parts.

 

Been there, done that! Except mine failed because of tampering. The second I checked the oil at the eBay seller's house, I knew that 77k miles was a BIG stretch - more like 277k.

I welded a tiny bead on the little pin for the trip meter. Worked for a few years at least.

 

Forgot, Saturday we got new tires for the truck.
Cooper Discoverer RTX 245/65-17

 

Well, I've been having far too much fun. We got new tires (P235 75R15) on my son's Blazer and he thought there was a front end wobble. I drove it and was relieved that what he was likely feeling was probably new tread vibration as there is no discernable wobble of any kind. However, the first time I hit the brake I knew I there was an issue because I veered right. Experience told me it was most likely the driver's side brake hose. I was right. When I pulled it loose there wasn't a drop of fluid coming from it.

Unfortunately when I began to unscrew the metal line from the top of the brake hose the line twisted. I instantly stopped, pulled the hose loose and turned it off of the metal line and then put it back together the same way. When I snugged up the metal line it untwisted and I thought I was in the clear. I had my son pump up the brakes to bleed it out a bit more, (after gravity bleeding it) and barely had any fluid coming from the bleeder. I looked over and saw I was still leaking slightly from the metal line fitting. I snugged it just a tiny bit more and told him to pump it up again. One pump and I yelled for him to stop. The line had ruptured. It Just missed hitting me in the eye.

After that it was almost a week of fighting to try to get a line cut and double flared that would seal. No such luck. I finally gave up and used an eight inch copper line which was slightly easier to bend. It was still a fight to get just the right bends which would allow me to use that long of a line and I still had to pull the brake hose loose to get the right angle to start the line into the hose. I was relieved when it Finally wasn't leaking at either end of the metal line.

Up next, bleed it out. The problem was I Still wasn't getting a good flow of fluid from the bleeder. Since I hadn't been able to find my Chilton's manual and no one could tell me the correct torque for the bolt that holds the hose to the caliper I'd just snugged it. For those who don't know, that bolt is hollow and has a hole in one spot on the side of the shank and one in the bottom so the fluid can travel through it. Personally, I'd never seen anything like it. Just to make sure the hole in the side was lined up correctly I pulled it back out and used my Dremel to make a small mark that lined up with the hole. I put it back in and tightened it to the point the hole would line up with the hose. Still no flow. Turns out the bleeder was clogged. I picked up a couple and swapped it out. It looks like someone intentionally plugged it.

After bleeding it out at that caliper (driver's side front) I checked the pedal and found it was still a bit spongy and knew we needed to bleed the entire system. We put it up on jack stands and pulled the wheels today so we could get it bled out. I was confronted with something else I'd never seen. The rear bleeders are located in such a way that they can only be bled with a socket. The passenger's side rear bleeder broke loose and I bled it out but as luck would have it the driver's rear bleeder rounded on me. It just Couldn't be easy. I sprayed the brake line where it screws into the wheel cylinder in hopes that line won't twist on me and then went to town and picked up a set of rear bleeders. I'm going to let it set overnight and go at it again tomorrow.

Too much fun.

 

And the projector housings, which is most likely where most of the cost comes from.