Sweet I might have give that a try. Or just make my own since I have a crap ton of 1/8 steel leftover.
Also you know you could just swap to a truck intake setup pretty sure they are cable driven throttle bodies on certain models

 

Had to exchange ignition wires that were put in last month. Turns out a bit of wire was exposed and grounding to the heat shroud next to the 6th cylinder spark plug.

 

It's not the intake that's the issue, is the crank sensor and reluctor ring that's associated with it. Early LS series engines used a 24x reluctor on the crank for the crank sensor signal and communicated with the early computers that would work with the cable style throttle bodies. On the later Gen IV LS engines they went to a 58x reluctor crank and crank sensor signal and they ONLY came in electronic throttle body, so the ONLY choices are to either run the electronic throttle body with a factory computer (and getting the newer computer to communicate with the older gen electronics in the Blazer would be hell...) OR run a stand alone management system like a Holly Dominator or Haltech to run a cable throttle body (and frankly I'm not putting THAT much money into it right now LOL), plus I really like the idea of keeping a factory computer since I don't plan on boosting it or doing anything crazy like that, so a basic tune with reasonable fuel tables is very achievable on the factory computer for what I'm doing (and keeping a computer of the same generation of the Blazer, such as a 411 computer, would allow me to run the LS3 and still communicate to the truck and have everything read correctly such as gauges and such). But anywho, the module that I ordered takes the 58x signal on the Gen IV LS3 engine and converts it to the 24x signal that the older computer can use with the cable throttle body that I can buy to bolt onto the LS3 intake

 

Installed some new reverse lights






Took all damn afternoon because I insisted on making the install clean and removable with a plug and all...












But came out good and works great! Just triggers with the reverse lights.

 

My trip to Moab starts tomorrow with a drive from KC to Golden.

I have installed the skid plates that I got from Eshaw (thank you!).

Did the Harbor Freight receiver tube modification to replace the tow hooks with D Ring shackles. Kind of ugly but strong so a Gorilla Mod <G>

Top off the fluids so now the adventure begins.

 

Have a fun trip, be safe, take pictures.

What is this mod you speak of... Hooks out, receiver tubes in, with d-ring recovery hitches plugged into said tubes?

 

Put in a couple ounces of freon, seems I have a VERY slow leak somewhere... Hasn't been much of any issue over the last 6 months or so, but now that it's getting 3-hell's hot here in Florida ('tis the season), the AC in the 'ol girl was having a hard time keeping up... Blowing nice and cold now though Then gave her a once-over under the hood, checking everything out in preparation for a 3 hour drive tomorrow to visit some family for my niece's high school graduation (seems like only yesterday we were waiting in the hospital when she was born... man how the time flies... and man do I feel old lol)

But anyhow, been having a random whiff of antifreeze every once in a while for the past few weeks, and I've been sort of neglecting to check it... so checking it was definitely a priority before tomorrow's trip. The last few times I've checked it in the past, I've popped the cap to find a nasty brown substance caked to the bottom of the cap and the coolant level a little low in the radiator. I was pleasantly surprised to find a clean and full radiator this time! Even the reservoir was still full. So the only thing I can assume is that maybe I overfilled the reservoir last time and it's been slowing purging itself and overflowing and trickling out, and that's what I'm smelling? I dunno... doesn't seem to be leaking from anywhere though. Haven't been having any overheating issues or anything, just wanted to check it out.

 

Last summer I had an occasion to remove the overflow tank as I wanted to measure its volume. In the process I found a bunch of that brown crud still there from years ago tucked way back in the thin section. I took a couple partial fills and shakes to get it all out. Thus, it is reasonable to think that there has been some working its way back into your system.

 

Possibly. I'm hoping and believing it's all pretty much working out of the system by now.

Before, it seemed to be accumulating on the bottom of the cap, around in the inside of the spout, and down on the inside on the top of the cores that I could see through the cap opening, and possibly deeper although there's no possible way to see down into the radiator any deeper obviously... It was a very soft gooey deposit that I could very easily just wipe off with my finger or a rag, and every time I popped the cap I'd just wipe all of it out that I could, clean it all up, top off the coolant, and put the cap back on, and keep on trucking... I don't suspect any clogging anywhere though, because like I said, not a single instance of overheating at all, but the Intrepid fans probably help with that too

 

The 12" receiver tubes fit in the frame and need to be drilled and tapped. The bolts for the oil filter/ raditor skid plate are a bit of a challenge. They hit at the edge of the tube. Might need to drill them out but used shorter bolts. Now I am beginning to hate the plastic fan blades on the engine fan. Lost a 2nd fan yesterday and it took out the radiator. Limped it into Goodland Kansas and fortunately the Oreilly auto was a warehouse store. Got a new raditaor and fan. Lost 3 hours of time.