When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
General ChatChat about all things Blazer (and related vehicles). Off-topic stuff should be in the lounge, and all mechanical problems should be posted in the proper forum.
Well today ifinally got a chance to do something. i fixed an exhaust leak ive had for about a month. Was some kind of plastic T in front of the crank pulley. no idea what it was for, i just fixed it with some copper tubing i had layin around. took 10 minutes.
I attemped to diagnose my highway speed (75-85) vibration/shake. balljoints seem to be stiff, so im not sure. I can wiggle the wheel on its steering axis, but the rod ends look okay. a buddy of mine claims the inner tie rod on the driver side is moving, but i cant see it. No idea, i just know it doesnt feel safe.
Check check your tire tread and your wheel balance. I had the same problem changed my tires problem went away kind of. It was like an ostrich sticking its head in the sand. real problem was the bushings on your upper and lower control arms. You may also want to check your sway bar link pins
Oil filter change today- usual Napa gold filter and mobil 5w30 synthetic high mileage. Noted front main seal leaking more. Meh, when I finally go to fix that will do rear and trans till then let it seep and I will just check levels more often.
The rtv looks good still my only worry is gonna be aligning the distributor I’m sure I can do it just worries me
About the radiator, take pictures of it before you remove it and even use a Sharpie to mark the rotor position. When I did mine, I couldn't get it back in correctly. I realized that while taking it out, the slot in the top of the oil pump drive shaft had rotated just enough that I couldn't get the distributor shaft to engage in the correct teeth. I was able, by trial and error, use a super big flat-bladed screw driver to rotate back the oil pump shaft so that the distributor dropped in perfectly with the rotor in the correct position. If you get off with the rotor you will notice it because there are only like 13 teeth on the gear. Whatever you do, do not rotation the crank!
About the radiator, take pictures of it before you remove it and even use a Sharpie to mark the rotor position. When I did mine, I couldn't get it back in correctly. I realized that while taking it out, the slot in the top of the oil pump drive shaft had rotated just enough that I couldn't get the distributor shaft to engage in the correct teeth. I was able, by trial and error, use a super big flat-bladed screw driver to rotate back the oil pump shaft so that the distributor dropped in perfectly with the rotor in the correct position. If you get off with the rotor you will notice it because there are only like 13 teeth on the gear. Whatever you do, do not rotation the crank!
I have to replace my distributor the screw holes for the cap are cracked and I can’t tighten it down properly I have another distributor for it so pictures might be best
Changed the rear bumper, changed plastic oil filter protector for an aluminum one, and installed a front fendeŕ plastic mouldings on the drivers side, all done on the mothers jimmy.
Old Yard bumper Cleaned up a little Primed Painted and installed Plastic piece behind drivers front wheel, never had one from purchased a year ago. Old crappy plastic New aluminum
So this was yesterday but did my intake gaskets and the maf sensor Whole engine opened up Rear passenger side Front passenger side Rear drivers side Front drivers side Tons of mud caked on the intake including a mouse nest I didn’t know about
This is what my gaskets looked like when I did them:
those look abit better then mine did I don’t think mine were ever changed and I have just over 300k km on the engine and knew they were “seeping” 3 years ago when I got it at 225k
those look abit better then mine did I don’t think mine were ever changed and I have just over 300k km on the engine and knew they were “seeping” 3 years ago when I got it at 225k
I did mine at about 130k miles on my motor. But as soon as I had heard about how they could fail and ruin your motor I decided to change them out. I also upgraded the fuel injection system at the time since I had also realized that at almost 20 y.o. (at the time) it seemed like it was bound to start having issues.
Tread and tire balance
