Lol not for me

 

Changed rear brake lines. Left caliper is still dragging... Replaced the caliper already too, doesn't seem to have a sticking piston as I can compress it fairly easily, but I may end up swapping the caliper out again just to make sure...




Oh and got done working underneath the rear and noticed this on the ground...

#blazerlife

 

I love that... fix one just for another to show...

have you checked for metal swelling around the lines? I have had that happen to my front calipers, and my buddies journey also did the same thing in the rear.

 

I did, and they didn't look too bad, but I just replaced both of the caliper flex hoses along with the calipers. Had one of the front calipers lock up on me several months ago and I went ahead and changed both front calipers and flex hoses at the same time to rule that out on the front too. The only flex hose on the whole truck that I haven't changed is the main center hose going from the frame to the rear axle before it splits off to the left and right wheel. But the right wheel comes free when the brakes are let off, just as it should, it's just the left that's dragging. I pulled the caliper back off again today when I replaced the hoses. I can compress the piston in fairly easily, easily enough that I would think that it would retract back in no problem. I compressed it, then stuck a board in the caliper, got in the truck and depressed the brake pedal to push the piston back out, then compressed the piston again, and repeated this process about 5 times, just to make sure the piston was moving like it should, and it worked fine every time. It's not dragging hard enough to make the truck pull to one side or the other, and if you jam on the brakes it comes to a halt quick and stays straight as an arrow without any pulling to either side, so I knot it's definitely working properly. The slide pins are also all brand new, fresh grease, and move freely, so it's not those binding up and causing it.

The only other possibilities that come to mind are are a bad ABS module restricting back flow, a bad master cylinder doing the same, or (and this is probably the most likely) the caliper that I just put on it is crap and maybe I'm just underestimating how much force I'm applying when I manually compress the piston back in.

So I'm at a loss with it. Might just drive it for now and let the bastard get hot and ware in and see what happens... Worse case scenario, I overheat and warp the rotor? I'll have a fire extinguisher with me just in case lol.

Another "coincidence" is the fact that it's the same side locking up now that I found a destroyed pad on when I first dug into the rear end the other day.

 

Finally changed to top terminals..tight fit.



added 6 awg to battery to main fuse, and main fuse to fuse box

 

Started gradually exchanging some coolant for water and Prestone Radiator Flush. Mostly just water in there now. Using siphon hose through radiator fill cap on cold engine, first thing in morning.

May do same, but add straight Ethylene Glycol antifreeze tomorrow to achieve closer to 50/50 mixture.

Car(s) always seem to run better when antifreeze is in the coolant mixture vs straight water. I wonder why that is. I would almost describe it as "less resistance."

Here is how the stuff coming out looked.

 

New (to me) brushguard.

 

Fixed the roaring sound that was likely coming from the fan clutch. Not the occational /intermittent roar, this one wouldn't stop. Temperature was okay, needle hovering around 12:00, occasionally 1:00. Water in overflow tank was okay.

Poor thing took a gallon of water! Still did some roaring in a driveway test but the next day 60 miles on the highway, all was quiet. Checked the water this morning, still full, so IDK what happened.to the old water.

 

I went out playing In the mud on Sunday got stuck and got my exhaust donuts changed

Was deeper then it looked


my daughter had a blast untill we got stuck and had to wait for a pull out

 

I am very curious to see if mine is sucking down anything from the Overflow as well.