what have you gotten done on your blazer today?
#5515
Yeah... yeah... yeah... Bash me all you want. There is a difference in price too! And plus, they didn't have the gm manual where I went. Haynes can't be that bad man. You gotta get what you can, not going out of my way for the gm version.
#5516
i luckily got a delphi fuel pump for close to 200 from a guy i know at napa. anyways. i got that old 74 back up and running agian. i cut the fenders up so i can fit those boggers on and they fit. im gonna use this strictly as a mud truck. trailering it from place to place. once my dad gets a trailer that is. for now my backyard is my mudhole lol. im surprised i got it running so fast too. it took 2 days. one for cutting the body panels. and the other to switch a hell of a lot of engine parts out. i changed the starter, headers, valve covers, valve cover gaskets, spark plug wires, and about 3 different batteries. today im gonna try and put the headlights back in it and get those working again. we will see though. i just want to get offroad lights and stick them on the hood or something. just a cheapo pair.
on another note im having a guy come down here from miluakee to look at that 383 i have. if i sell that im just going to scrap the rest of that truck. take what i need off of it like the leaf springs and stuff like that. the top is still good. maybe keep the axles. idk. this is all dependant if he takes the engine or not.
on another note im having a guy come down here from miluakee to look at that 383 i have. if i sell that im just going to scrap the rest of that truck. take what i need off of it like the leaf springs and stuff like that. the top is still good. maybe keep the axles. idk. this is all dependant if he takes the engine or not.
#5517
:banghead: I just want to win one time. So far this week, my Blazer has died TWICE on the side of the road. Monday it was because the distributor cap arc'ed and blew up the ignition coil, made the garage take care of it (just stalled in the middle of the road on me). This morning (on my way to an important interview) the damned thing died again on the side of the highway. Made the garage work on it again, as it gave the same symptoms as previous, so I figured they needed to fix it right. This time around, however, it wasn't the same problem, but rather some exhaust diversion valve(?) gave out, and exhaust gases melted a few hoses and part of the damned wiring harness. I'm guessing that it melted the wires for the ignition coil and that caused the same symptoms that I experienced before. The garage doesn't even know how long it's going to take to fix it yet as they haven't had time to look at the full extent of the damage.
I just want to take a gallon of gas and a match to it. Even after this is fixed, I've still got a pitman arm and an inner tie rod to do on the front driverside, I've got a droopy torsion bar on the same side that someone cranked all the way up to make the truck level, its seriously cranked an inch higher than the pass side t-bar just to level it. The reclining lever on both seats is broken off, and both doors need new pins because they're drooping almost an inch at the latch.
In the past year, I've replaced both front wheelbearings, both rear calipers (which took out the rotors when they both seized at the same time on the highway), and the cursed 4wd issue that I've been having that was finally fixed after the third time in the shop for the same prob (all under warranty). After they replaced the TCCM and the transfer case actuator motor, and the ATC fuse kept blowing, they finally looked at electrical and found a wire in the harness coming off the fusebox under the hood that was a little too close to the EGR, which caused it to melt and short out. Does anyone have any ideas for me? Can I call this a lemon and make the dealership take it back and get me something else?
And the bitch of it is, I'm still trying to pay this POS off.
I just want to take a gallon of gas and a match to it. Even after this is fixed, I've still got a pitman arm and an inner tie rod to do on the front driverside, I've got a droopy torsion bar on the same side that someone cranked all the way up to make the truck level, its seriously cranked an inch higher than the pass side t-bar just to level it. The reclining lever on both seats is broken off, and both doors need new pins because they're drooping almost an inch at the latch.
In the past year, I've replaced both front wheelbearings, both rear calipers (which took out the rotors when they both seized at the same time on the highway), and the cursed 4wd issue that I've been having that was finally fixed after the third time in the shop for the same prob (all under warranty). After they replaced the TCCM and the transfer case actuator motor, and the ATC fuse kept blowing, they finally looked at electrical and found a wire in the harness coming off the fusebox under the hood that was a little too close to the EGR, which caused it to melt and short out. Does anyone have any ideas for me? Can I call this a lemon and make the dealership take it back and get me something else?
And the bitch of it is, I'm still trying to pay this POS off.
#5518
Starting Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 187

You ain't the only one that have Haynes manual. I have one too for my '95 S10 Blazer and it helps me. They don't have the GM manual where I went either.
#5520
started tearing down the top of the intake to try a new fuel pressure regulator. got stuck when i couldnt get the fuel lines apart. need a 16mm crowsfoot, wrench is just too long & my line wrenches wont fit either. may need gaskets anyhow. when i checked the pressure it had 53 when running, actually increased to 60 when motor was shut off, pressure gradually decreased to about 49 after 10 min, then stayed at that spot once restarted. sure is alot of teardown just to get to the fuel regulator.





