heres the situation: A while back i end up figuring out through other probs that my left side caliper is shot; piston not retracting. so i go ahead and change the whole thing, now i smell the brakes and can feel the heat when i step out. the rim is hot to the touch. when i installed the new caliper i never applied grease to the mount. reason being is i just happened to change the pads a week before and put some grease on then. im assuming that most of the grease might have come off with the old caliper. i was in the dark and never thought of looking at the time. im gonna try and add some grease tomorrow and see what happens. also i was never really able to bend the ears on the outer pad that well and i was wondering what that might do plus if there might me any other reason then the grease then hit me up with that info. also im on the hunt for pads that dont leave so much dust, my best hit yet was with raybestos ceramics. but im willing to hear everyones opinions on pads.

 

Could be a colapsed brake line. that would cuase your caliper not to retract.

I buy Raybestoes pads, semi-metalic. Wash the truck once in a while and the brake dust isn't a problem.

 

so im looking for a dent or crimp in the line? thanx and yes my truck does get a little dirty, much fun in the dirt. but ive got these garbage pro stops on there now and man do they blacken up my rims quickly. im just looking for the less dusty. what do u think of bendix?

 

Nay, you wont see a crimp or bent line. The rubber inside the brake hose will collapse ofver time. Lookk for cracks ont eh brake line. If you see any, it needs to be replaced. New lines are like $20 per side.

I only use Raybestoes. They work and last a long time. Not really interested in experiementing when these work really well.

 

Like Hanr3 says, possible brake flex hose.
What happens is you have like a thousand pounds pressure pushing thru the hose to the caliper piston and you only have the caliper seal to push the fluid back to the master cylinder. If the hose is collapsed internally, the pressure won't return...= hot brakes = premature wear = excessive brake dust.

As far as pads go, I recommend a good semi-metallic, rivetted pad.

 

would the rivets eat the rotor when the pad gets worn down?

 

Yea, the rivets would eat up the rotor. Some let it go too long and end up with some nice ruts.

 

i just did brakes on my buddy's 91 blazer. the right front pads were horrible. the metal on the pads was melted on parts of it. it's a wonder he had brakes at all.

 

yea i know before i changed the caliper i had to set the pads through the top(master) cause i snapped the bleeder valve about a year ago so it seems like the hose might be clear, but im gonna change it when i get around to it. its still raining on the island and i dont know when it will stop, plus im still paying for my tranny.