Hypertech Tuning a Hoax
#11
02-10-2006 | 05:59 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 318
From:
RE: Hypertech Tuning a Hoax
Look at the instructions of the Hypertech it will explain. I do not have a scanner here but basically it says "Optimized engine spark and fuel tuning based on a 160 deg. Power Stat and 92 octane or better fuel". "You will achieve best performance if you repalce your stock thermostat with a Hypertech 160 Powerstat. The power programmer plus will work with a stock thermostat, but our best performance was specifically developed for a cooler running engine." This was taken off the instructions.
#12
02-10-2006 | 06:00 PM
RE: Hypertech Tuning a Hoax
Well, too much heat is a bad thing. It can cause detonation which would result in the PCM pulling timing. Too little heat can cause the PCM to set a code and run in fuel enrichment mode A LOT. If the programmer asked you what stat you had in, it mostlikely lowered the 'warmed-up' temp to correspond with the lower temp stat. I believe the stock warm-up temp is around 160-165.
If it doesn't ask you, I wouldn't go with anything under a 180*F stat.
Now onto the octane. I have heard various different reviews of the Hypertechs 87 octane programming and most have been that it really doesn't work. You shouldn't make that determination until you get some heat out of that thing. The stock fan will cool the radiator enough to fully support a 180*F stat. The only time that it will get up to 200*F is when you are WOT for extended periods of time, but as soon as you let off, it'll drop.
My truck runs at right around 185-195*F all day long as read on my Autotap diagnostic interface. It can't have a stock stat in it, but it's working so I haven't had a reason to pull it. I will be doing a flush/fill this summer and will put in a verified 180*F stat.
If it doesn't ask you, I wouldn't go with anything under a 180*F stat.
Now onto the octane. I have heard various different reviews of the Hypertechs 87 octane programming and most have been that it really doesn't work. You shouldn't make that determination until you get some heat out of that thing. The stock fan will cool the radiator enough to fully support a 180*F stat. The only time that it will get up to 200*F is when you are WOT for extended periods of time, but as soon as you let off, it'll drop.
My truck runs at right around 185-195*F all day long as read on my Autotap diagnostic interface. It can't have a stock stat in it, but it's working so I haven't had a reason to pull it. I will be doing a flush/fill this summer and will put in a verified 180*F stat.
#13
02-10-2006 | 06:07 PM
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 170
From:
RE: Hypertech Tuning a Hoax
ORIGINAL: ivannj
Look at the instructions of the Hypertech it will explain. I do not have a scanner here but basically it says "Optimized engine spark and fuel tuning based on a 160 deg. Power Stat and 92 octane or better fuel". "You will achieve best performance if you repalce your stock thermostat with a Hypertech 160 Powerstat. The power programmer plus will work with a stock thermostat, but our best performance was specifically developed for a cooler running engine." This was taken off the instructions.
Look at the instructions of the Hypertech it will explain. I do not have a scanner here but basically it says "Optimized engine spark and fuel tuning based on a 160 deg. Power Stat and 92 octane or better fuel". "You will achieve best performance if you repalce your stock thermostat with a Hypertech 160 Powerstat. The power programmer plus will work with a stock thermostat, but our best performance was specifically developed for a cooler running engine." This was taken off the instructions.
Also, the 160 degree thermostat is not recommended by Hypertech for the 4.3L engine. "For 4.3 & 8.1L vehicles, Hypertech recommends using the stock thermostat."
This quote was taken from page 7 of the Hypertech instructions: http://www.hypertech.com/get_install...ion.php?iid=52
#14
02-10-2006 | 06:11 PM
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 170
From:
RE: Hypertech Tuning a Hoax
ORIGINAL: swartlkk
Well, too much heat is a bad thing. It can cause detonation which would result in the PCM pulling timing. Too little heat can cause the PCM to set a code and run in fuel enrichment mode A LOT. If the programmer asked you what stat you had in, it mostlikely lowered the 'warmed-up' temp to correspond with the lower temp stat. I believe the stock warm-up temp is around 160-165.
If it doesn't ask you, I wouldn't go with anything under a 180*F stat.
Now onto the octane. I have heard various different reviews of the Hypertechs 87 octane programming and most have been that it really doesn't work. You shouldn't make that determination until you get some heat out of that thing. The stock fan will cool the radiator enough to fully support a 180*F stat. The only time that it will get up to 200*F is when you are WOT for extended periods of time, but as soon as you let off, it'll drop.
My truck runs at right around 185-195*F all day long as read on my Autotap diagnostic interface. It can't have a stock stat in it, but it's working so I haven't had a reason to pull it. I will be doing a flush/fill this summer and will put in a verified 180*F stat.
Well, too much heat is a bad thing. It can cause detonation which would result in the PCM pulling timing. Too little heat can cause the PCM to set a code and run in fuel enrichment mode A LOT. If the programmer asked you what stat you had in, it mostlikely lowered the 'warmed-up' temp to correspond with the lower temp stat. I believe the stock warm-up temp is around 160-165.
If it doesn't ask you, I wouldn't go with anything under a 180*F stat.
Now onto the octane. I have heard various different reviews of the Hypertechs 87 octane programming and most have been that it really doesn't work. You shouldn't make that determination until you get some heat out of that thing. The stock fan will cool the radiator enough to fully support a 180*F stat. The only time that it will get up to 200*F is when you are WOT for extended periods of time, but as soon as you let off, it'll drop.
My truck runs at right around 185-195*F all day long as read on my Autotap diagnostic interface. It can't have a stock stat in it, but it's working so I haven't had a reason to pull it. I will be doing a flush/fill this summer and will put in a verified 180*F stat.
However, I will try the higher octane (stock vs Hypertech of course). You really think the Hypertech will close the 7-10HP gap by simply bumping up the octane?
#15
02-10-2006 | 06:12 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 318
From:
RE: Hypertech Tuning a Hoax
Well maybe its different for a 2003 but what I quoted was directly from the instruction sheet. It even has one page for the installation of a powerstat to get you to change it.
#16
02-10-2006 | 06:15 PM
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 170
From:
RE: Hypertech Tuning a Hoax
ORIGINAL: ivannj
Well maybe its different for a 2003 but what I quoted was directly from the instruction sheet. It even has one page for the installation of a powerstat to get you to change it.
Well maybe its different for a 2003 but what I quoted was directly from the instruction sheet. It even has one page for the installation of a powerstat to get you to change it.
#17
02-10-2006 | 06:29 PM
RE: Hypertech Tuning a Hoax
It is mostlikely because GM locked out the code for dropping the warm-up temp. Don't know for sure without actually getting into your PCM and that would be $$$. A 180*F or 185*F should give you better temp control without having to worry about PCM headaches.
#18
02-10-2006 | 06:29 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 318
From:
RE: Hypertech Tuning a Hoax
You should call them up or email them and tell them what you discovered. I was reading the truckperformance.com reviews of this programmer for your year and it gets 5 stars from everyone.
#19
02-10-2006 | 06:32 PM
RE: Hypertech Tuning a Hoax
I would also like to throw this in. If you have an excessive buildup of carbon inside the combustion chambers, this can cause detonation. With the increased timing (one of the things that hypertech does to get more ponies), this could make an existing problem worse. When the PCM detects detonation, through the knock sensors, it will retard the timing until it doesn't sense detonation anymore. Wiping out any changes that the tuner had done and probably going further back than what the stock tuning would take it. To reduce harmful detonation, you really should either do a seafoam treatment or get the motor cleaned professionally at a shop. This is starting to sound like what is going on here.
#20
02-10-2006 | 06:37 PM
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 170
From:
RE: Hypertech Tuning a Hoax
ORIGINAL: swartlkk
I would also like to throw this in. If you have an excessive buildup of carbon inside the combustion chambers, this can cause detonation. With the increased timing (one of the things that hypertech does to get more ponies), this could make an existing problem worse. When the PCM detects detonation, through the knock sensors, it will retard the timing until it doesn't sense detonation anymore. Wiping out any changes that the tuner had done and probably going further back than what the stock tuning would take it. To reduce harmful detonation, you really should either do a seafoam treatment or get the motor cleaned professionally at a shop. This is starting to sound like what is going on here.
I would also like to throw this in. If you have an excessive buildup of carbon inside the combustion chambers, this can cause detonation. With the increased timing (one of the things that hypertech does to get more ponies), this could make an existing problem worse. When the PCM detects detonation, through the knock sensors, it will retard the timing until it doesn't sense detonation anymore. Wiping out any changes that the tuner had done and probably going further back than what the stock tuning would take it. To reduce harmful detonation, you really should either do a seafoam treatment or get the motor cleaned professionally at a shop. This is starting to sound like what is going on here.
Trust me, I want this programmer to work lol... I was actually very upset at these numbers... No one wants to spend $200 on a programmer to find out it steals power... (Although the shift point/firmness tuning is really nice)