Hey everyone,

I just bought a 92 Chevy S10 Blazer Tahoe LT with a 4.3 CPI. 91k miles. I picked it up for $700 bucks. But anyways...I have a few questions.

Theres is a klinking sound when I change into drive, and when the transmission shifts gears. Not sure what it is. Should I try lubing up the differential and the axles?
Also I'm trying to replace the fuel filter, but the lines are all rusted and I dont want to crack the lines. Any advice?
I managed to change the spark plugs, distributor cap, and wires, but the middle plug on the driver side is soo hard to change because of the steering column being in the way, Any advice on changing that a little easier? I wanna upgrade the plugs thats why.
Also I have an alarm system that I'm not sure is factory or not, but I'm not sure how to activate it and the techs of how it operates.
Also one more thing, when i was changing the plugs, there is this white little plastic sensor? or plug? on the driver side of the engine right behing the middle spark plug, that i managed to break off. That came off and the service engine light came on. I managed to connect back enough so the light went off, but what the heck is that?!? What does it do?

Much appreciation in advance for feedback.

 

1st thing, your sensor. That is the knock sensor. My plastic cover was broken and the wire fell out one day while driving along. Without the knock sensor you get 0 advance! The truck just felt like it fell over on it's nose. Also, got code 43 from the computer. Some carquests have electronic kits where you can get the different style plugs and connectors for the sensors (I had to rewire a dump truck's 2 speed rear end after someone got it hooked on an old barb wire fence and pulled the wires out of the connector). See if you have one you can buy that connector and re-attach it.

#3 spark plug is no biggy going thru the fender well, under the steering column. I did it in my driveway. My brother showed me a trick which is really sweet, remove the tire and get ALL the plugs thru the fenderwell.

Your clinking sounds like u-joints. Put your seat belt on (VERY important) , lean out of the truck and put the truck in gear and see if it comes from under your seat, or from behind you. That'll tell you front or rear u joint.

 

The tranny might be loose linkages, check the gear selector arm it might be fuggled on the inside( $100 repair at a shop)


Fuel filter, I had the same problem I just cut the lines and used EFI fuel hose and hose clamps for the pressure and it hasnt leaked since. Just gotta crank on em but dont strip em.


The spark plugs are easy, stick with stock, they are the best for that motor, you only need bigger/better(or so they say, I never noticed a single different between stock and MSD wires or NOLOGY, they gave me the identical times at nearly identical MPH) I didnt need to remove the tire, passenger side can be had from the top very easily, I only got the #3 middle driver bank from the wheel well, didnt break a single one and was done in less then 15 minutes start to finish.


DO NOT BUY A HAYNES MANUAL, spend the extra money and get the factory manuals or atleast a chiltons.

 

I only own Haynes manuals. And until I rebuilt my trannies I never used another book.

#3, turn the steering wheel until the shaft flat spot is up, or cut the rubber sleeve off. Slide your spark plug socket on and use a wrench to loosen plug.

Have you tried spraying the fuel filter threads with PB Blaster? Let it soak, tap, spray, do it for a week. The PB Blaster will saok into the threads and eat the rust. Tapping helps the chemical move into the threads. Just light taps, like when you type.

 

Hey...thanks for the advice guys. I havent worked on the fuel filter yet, I had a bigger problem yesterday. I found out my gas tank had a leak. The whole thing was rusted up. All rotted...I found this out after filling up my tank for the first time. Luckily I was able to buy a new tank at advance auto parts under my uncles mechanic's name for the price of $105.00. So it took me all day, due to rusted lines and fuel pump housing, but i got it done. I will try the PB on the filter threads. If i cant do that i might resort to cutting the lines and using the high pressure hoses and clamps...I feel that the truck will run alot better because it prolly is all clogged up with rust and dirt from the old tank. I wanna try changing the sprk plugs again. Any recomendations on which kind? Autolite? Bosch Platinums? And the gapping is .045 right? I need to get a new muffler and tail pipe because they both are all rusted. Any idea on how much that will cost?? Also the first time I took out the plugs, the heat shields right above the manifold were all rusted so i had to pull them out...is there any way i can put some kind of heat shield for the plugs on there so my plugs dont burn out?? I think that might be causing one of my cylinders to be sticking?..I hear how it idles like its not firing one of the cylinders, but it only happens after the engine is warmed up.

 

Hey...thanks for the advice guys. I havent worked on the fuel filter yet, I had a bigger problem yesterday. I found out my gas tank had a leak. The whole thing was rusted up. All rotted...I found this out after filling up my tank for the first time. Luckily I was able to buy a new tank at advance auto parts under my uncles mechanic's name for the price of $105.00. So it took me all day, due to rusted lines and fuel pump housing, but i got it done. I will try the PB on the filter threads. If i cant do that i might resort to cutting the lines and using the high pressure hoses and clamps...I feel that the truck will run alot better because it prolly is all clogged up with rust and dirt from the old tank. I wanna try changing the sprk plugs again. Any recomendations on which kind? Autolite? Bosch Platinums? And the gapping is .045 right? I need to get a new muffler and tail pipe because they both are all rusted. Any idea on how much that will cost?? Also the first time I took out the plugs, the heat shields right above the manifold were all rusted so i had to pull them out...is there any way i can put some kind of heat shield for the plugs on there so my plugs dont burn out?? I think that might be causing one of my cylinders to be sticking?..I hear how it idles like its not firing one of the cylinders, but it only happens after the engine is warmed up.




ANYONE HAVE ANY ADVICE?

 

Check that plug gap. I thought it was .60

AC Delcos seem to work the best.

I bought a new tailpipe (one after the muffler) for $25 from Blains Farm & Fleet. Autozone was about the same price, but had to be ordered. Call around, some places want more, O'Reily's was almost $70. Although I am not sure she knew what she was doing.

I installed a glasspack, $30. Between teh glasspack, tailpipe, two clamps, and tax it was less then $70.

 

Is it .60 gap? I set mine at .35 and they run great.