Flowmaster doesn't make a kit for our vehicles. Most people simply get a 40 series or a 50 series. It won't need to be welded you can always clamp it tight. I have mine clamped right now with no leaks. Simply cut the old one out get about 2 foot of extra tube and clamp her up.

 

I would not recommend a single hand-held tuner. I would recommend a custom tune which typically can be done for around $200.

Air injection is an emissions thing ONLY. It is there so the vehicle can meet a lower emissions standard (LEV in the case of AIR equiped 4.3L vehicles). There are Blazer's sold that do not include the AIR system. Any competent tuning shop can remove the codes associated with the AIR system meaning that you can completely remove it.

If your Blazer is equiped with the AIR system and you do not remove it (both physically and in the PCM), you will need the AIR equiped headers. If that is the case, then the headers you choose require the provisions for AIR and EGR. The RPO code for the AIR system is K18 - Air Injection Reactor System , Electric. Look at the RPO label on the inside of the glovebox door to find this and other RPO codes.

I also would not recommend completely removing the diverter on the throttle blade. I have mine completely removed and am starting to see a rich-front/lean-back condition from the color/condition of my plugs. I never was impressed with the change and my scans showed no appreciable difference between the full 7/8" diverter and no diverter. I am going to try out a 3/8" diverter throttle blade from a vortec 5.7L v8 throttle body and see how that goes.

 

So a flowmaster 52556 muffler and some extra 2.5" tubing and tip would work fine with the JBA 1842-6 headers? I'd probably have to get a new flange right?

 

I don't know man. This truck runs like ****. My GF's cavalier has more pickup and torque going uphill. I'm stuck with this POS blazer for another few years so I figured to try and make it drivable, but it seems I am fighting a losing battle.

 

No one is saying that it isn't possible to get better performance... Where did that come from?

Anyway, if your g/f's cavi has more pickup (so much that you notice the difference), then something isn't right with your Blazer.

 

I've already brought it to shops, had a full tune up. 3 different shops said it is fine. I've had it for 4 years and It has been weak since day 1.

 

Hey Kyle what type of cam would you recommend? who much more torque/horsepower? whats the install like?

 

Comp has tons of choices. Its been awhile since I've looked into it and I can't remember if they had hp/tq numbers. Obviously hp & tq both depend on the rest of the engine so if you have opened up the intake and exhaust, you should get better numbers than if you only did the exhaust.

As far as install.. Well, I don't know if the newer 4.3L has self retaining lifters. With self retaining lifters, you have to remove the valve covers, rocker arms and push rods. Then remove the water pump, timing cover, and timing chain/gear. Put the gear back on and rotate the cam through 1 full revolution to set the lifters up in their bores, then remove the cam. Without self retaining lifters, you'd need to remove the lower intake manifold and pull the lifters from their bores to keep them from falling down into the oil pan or getting hung up in the crank/rods.

I am also unsure if the blazer has enough room to do a cam swap without removing the radiator...

 

Hey paw, try running some seafoam through it. Worked wonders for mine, she's not a dog anymore. If you haven't already check the compression low compression mean crap performance.

 

Did sea foam last summer along with a new rad cap. Not as much smoke as many people here report.