2-2.5 inch lift kit - quality questions
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Beginning Member
Joined: Mar 2025
Posts: 10
2-2.5 inch lift kit - quality questions
So to preface, I don’t have a Blazer. I’m doing research so I know what to expect. I want to lift my blazer to fit 30-inch tires and improve the stance to something I like, but nothing obnoxious. I stated my potential plans on my first thread in the general sub-forum. (I also might want to upgrade brakes - make them stronger.)
After doing several searches on suspension lift kits, it seems like the closest and only one available is the Rough Country 2.5-inch lift kit.
I’ve read that ride quality suffers with this kit (might be the common result of all lift kits though). However, my biggest concern with lifting is increased wear and tear on drivetrain components (CV axles and so on) due to non-optimal angles (also seems to be common). Is this kit worth it? I’ve heard that the shocks also suck and to go with Bilstein shocks.
I am also seeing that Rough Country has apparently improved quality and changed designs over the years, which is mostly why I decided to make this thread.
Hoping to hear inputs.
After doing several searches on suspension lift kits, it seems like the closest and only one available is the Rough Country 2.5-inch lift kit.
I’ve read that ride quality suffers with this kit (might be the common result of all lift kits though). However, my biggest concern with lifting is increased wear and tear on drivetrain components (CV axles and so on) due to non-optimal angles (also seems to be common). Is this kit worth it? I’ve heard that the shocks also suck and to go with Bilstein shocks.
I am also seeing that Rough Country has apparently improved quality and changed designs over the years, which is mostly why I decided to make this thread.
Hoping to hear inputs.
BF Guru
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 5,588
From: Moscow, ID
If your goal is to run 30" tires, you don't need the RC 2.5" lift kit. If you want to run 31" tires, you will either need the RC kit or do some trimming on the front wheel wells.
The nice thing about the RC kit is that is is complete and includes a bracket to drop the front axle so that the angles on the CV shafts are not to extreme and has upper control arms with a geometry that will be easier on the ball joints.
I'm running 30" tires with the RC upper control arms on a suspension that has now collapsed to near stock height. LOL One of the projects for this spring is to replace the torsion bars and rear springs to get my 1.5-2.0 inch lift back. (see my build thread for more info)
I test fit 31" tires on my Blazer and the front tires would hit the body frame when the steering wheel was at full ****. I then decided to go with the 30" ones. This was also good since with the smaller diameter tires, I didn't lose as much effective gearing in my axles.
When I first installed my lift, the only problem I had with my CV joints was that the inner lip of the inner boots came off. I was able to fix them with a large worm drive hose clamps. On the drivers side, I had to remove the clamp because the worm drive would hit part of the frame. When I had the axle out, I replaced the boot with one from NAPA and repacked the joint with fresh grease and used the a new metal band to secure it. Both the new boot and the old boot with the hose clamp have stayed on nicely. However, checking your boots on your CV joints will have to be a regular maintenance item whenever you change your oil. I saw that rebuilding the boots of the CV joints is common on Toyotas that are often taken off road.
The nice thing about the RC kit is that is is complete and includes a bracket to drop the front axle so that the angles on the CV shafts are not to extreme and has upper control arms with a geometry that will be easier on the ball joints.
I'm running 30" tires with the RC upper control arms on a suspension that has now collapsed to near stock height. LOL One of the projects for this spring is to replace the torsion bars and rear springs to get my 1.5-2.0 inch lift back. (see my build thread for more info)
I test fit 31" tires on my Blazer and the front tires would hit the body frame when the steering wheel was at full ****. I then decided to go with the 30" ones. This was also good since with the smaller diameter tires, I didn't lose as much effective gearing in my axles.
When I first installed my lift, the only problem I had with my CV joints was that the inner lip of the inner boots came off. I was able to fix them with a large worm drive hose clamps. On the drivers side, I had to remove the clamp because the worm drive would hit part of the frame. When I had the axle out, I replaced the boot with one from NAPA and repacked the joint with fresh grease and used the a new metal band to secure it. Both the new boot and the old boot with the hose clamp have stayed on nicely. However, checking your boots on your CV joints will have to be a regular maintenance item whenever you change your oil. I saw that rebuilding the boots of the CV joints is common on Toyotas that are often taken off road.
Thread Starter
|
Beginning Member
Joined: Mar 2025
Posts: 10
If your goal is to run 30" tires, you don't need the RC 2.5" lift kit. If you want to run 31" tires, you will either need the RC kit or do some trimming on the front wheel wells.
The nice thing about the RC kit is that is is complete and includes a bracket to drop the front axle so that the angles on the CV shafts are not to extreme and has upper control arms with a geometry that will be easier on the ball joints.
I'm running 30" tires with the RC upper control arms on a suspension that has now collapsed to near stock height. LOL One of the projects for this spring is to replace the torsion bars and rear springs to get my 1.5-2.0 inch lift back. (see my build thread for more info)
I test fit 31" tires on my Blazer and the front tires would hit the body frame when the steering wheel was at full ****. I then decided to go with the 30" ones. This was also good since with the smaller diameter tires, I didn't lose as much effective gearing in my axles.
When I first installed my lift, the only problem I had with my CV joints was that the inner lip of the inner boots came off. I was able to fix them with a large worm drive hose clamps. On the drivers side, I had to remove the clamp because the worm drive would hit part of the frame. When I had the axle out, I replaced the boot with one from NAPA and repacked the joint with fresh grease and used the a new metal band to secure it. Both the new boot and the old boot with the hose clamp have stayed on nicely. However, checking your boots on your CV joints will have to be a regular maintenance item whenever you change your oil. I saw that rebuilding the boots of the CV joints is common on Toyotas that are often taken off road.
The nice thing about the RC kit is that is is complete and includes a bracket to drop the front axle so that the angles on the CV shafts are not to extreme and has upper control arms with a geometry that will be easier on the ball joints.
I'm running 30" tires with the RC upper control arms on a suspension that has now collapsed to near stock height. LOL One of the projects for this spring is to replace the torsion bars and rear springs to get my 1.5-2.0 inch lift back. (see my build thread for more info)
I test fit 31" tires on my Blazer and the front tires would hit the body frame when the steering wheel was at full ****. I then decided to go with the 30" ones. This was also good since with the smaller diameter tires, I didn't lose as much effective gearing in my axles.
When I first installed my lift, the only problem I had with my CV joints was that the inner lip of the inner boots came off. I was able to fix them with a large worm drive hose clamps. On the drivers side, I had to remove the clamp because the worm drive would hit part of the frame. When I had the axle out, I replaced the boot with one from NAPA and repacked the joint with fresh grease and used the a new metal band to secure it. Both the new boot and the old boot with the hose clamp have stayed on nicely. However, checking your boots on your CV joints will have to be a regular maintenance item whenever you change your oil. I saw that rebuilding the boots of the CV joints is common on Toyotas that are often taken off road.
Am I able to put other shocks and suspension that are not RC's in?
Hopefully CV joint maintenance isn't crazy painful. But we'll see.
Last edited by LePossibleBuilt192; Mar 28, 2025 at 06:46 PM.
BF Guru
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 5,588
From: Moscow, ID
Well that's good to know but I still want to lift the truck a bit to make it a little bit taller. Might sound stupid - I know. That said I'm not sure yet. I am not likely to take it off road (at least not often), but where I live sometimes gets a lot of rain which makes for some tall puddles, but even worse is when we get a LOT of snow...6 inches or more. The roads can also be really crappy in general.
Am I able to put other shocks and suspension that are not RC's in?
Hopefully CV joint maintenance isn't crazy painful. But we'll see.
Am I able to put other shocks and suspension that are not RC's in?
Hopefully CV joint maintenance isn't crazy painful. But we'll see.
The CV axles are annoying to me as I haven't figured out a way to get them out without disconnecting at least one ball joint. But it has been a while since I've tried. Just be sure to monitor the CV boots after you do any lift to see how they are doing. I was able to catch my boot failures super quick before the joints were contaminated with water or dirt.
One option is to get just the RC upper control arms, torsion bar keys, and rear shackles and do a 1.5 to 2.0 inch lift. This is what I was shooting for until my torsion bars and rear springs sagged.
I did my lift for a bit more peace of mind for when going off pavement in the woods for hunting and fishing in North Idaho. Where I live we get snow, sometimes as much as 6" overnight.
Thread Starter
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Beginning Member
Joined: Mar 2025
Posts: 10
Oh, you can definitely use other shocks instead of the RC ones. Be sure to get ones that are longer.
The CV axles are annoying to me as I haven't figured out a way to get them out without disconnecting at least one ball joint. But it has been a while since I've tried. Just be sure to monitor the CV boots after you do any lift to see how they are doing. I was able to catch my boot failures super quick before the joints were contaminated with water or dirt.
One option is to get just the RC upper control arms, torsion bar keys, and rear shackles and do a 1.5 to 2.0 inch lift. This is what I was shooting for until my torsion bars and rear springs sagged.
I did my lift for a bit more peace of mind for when going off pavement in the woods for hunting and fishing in North Idaho. Where I live we get snow, sometimes as much as 6" overnight.
The CV axles are annoying to me as I haven't figured out a way to get them out without disconnecting at least one ball joint. But it has been a while since I've tried. Just be sure to monitor the CV boots after you do any lift to see how they are doing. I was able to catch my boot failures super quick before the joints were contaminated with water or dirt.
One option is to get just the RC upper control arms, torsion bar keys, and rear shackles and do a 1.5 to 2.0 inch lift. This is what I was shooting for until my torsion bars and rear springs sagged.
I did my lift for a bit more peace of mind for when going off pavement in the woods for hunting and fishing in North Idaho. Where I live we get snow, sometimes as much as 6" overnight.
The CV axles stuff concerns me though… guess it’s a trade off. Hopefully it’s not too much of a PITA.
2 inch lift is fine for me - that’s not a whole lot of parts. But hopefully steering will be alright afterward. I’ll probably do suspension work during the whole process too though.
Snow can be a son of a gun at those levels…
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