ive been researching all over the web, here, s10 forum, s10extremists, etc etc and i have acquired quite a bit of parts for my SAS. i just came into possession of another 01 4 door blazer because i hated the way the last one went out and dont believe i had a fair chance to do the stuff i wanted to do to it, anyways i digress. ill be using the ORD kit with Rancho 44044 leafs, new stock rear leafs with AALs, astro steering box, np231 transfer case, 2" body lift, and i would like to run atleast 36s, preferably 38.5s if they would fit, the only thing i am still at a loss with is, what axles to use with the duties the blazer would be doing along with the tires? it will mostly be my winter rig (not uncommon to get atleast 2 feet of snow at a time that i gotta plow through to work cause town plowing blows around here) but at the same time it will be used throughout the year as well for towing, rainy days, pretty much anytime its not practical to ride the bike. i DO enjoy trail riding and sand pits alot, im not too crazy for mud but i do come across some decent sized mud holes along my trail riding. i got my own garage, lift, tools, and have all the time in the world to complete it. still the only question is, what axles to use? i want something that will hold up to the few mud holes i come across, the towing i would do (usually only me and my buddys bike or a quad on the trailer); while not being total overkill, adding unnecessary weight and empty pockets. i can find front and rear 10 bolts all day, as well as rear 12 bolts, i just heard that dana 44s were stronger than 10 bolts, idk if its true or not, i just want something dependable without paying through the nose

sorry for the rant

 

you cant say putting 38.5s on and not totally overkill in the same post...lol

Honestly keep searching, if you havent learned by now reading those sites, your not ready to do the swap.

 

dana 44s and 10 bolts are the same thing in my opinion. only thing different is the dana 44 has bigger splines where it goes into the carrier... which really doesnt mater cause the axle shaft is basically the same size. ive ran 38s for years on fullsized trucks. just as long as your not beating the heck out of it it will hold up

 

If you plan on running tires that size, you need to look at running 1 ton axles, as in D60/14 bolt.

 

well i have been researching even more since ive posted that 11 days ago and ive decided i want to run a wagoneer front and rear D44 as i dont want the full size axles under a mini truck, i know that even with a 13.5 tire on the waggy axles and with bushwacker fender flares im still gonna be on the edge depending on wheels whether they stick out further than an inch or not as in NH i still need it to pass inspection cause as i said it will mostly be a winter road rig but will also see incliment weather, rain, sleet, anything where id decide not to ride my bike in throughout the year, it will also be my weekend warrior, aint gonna see much if any mud/clay, it will mostly be a trail rig where ill come across, packed and loose dirt, some sand, loose rock beds, wash outs so im thinking at this point im looking at the waggy axles as i can get front and rears at a local junkyard for 3 to 4 bills and run them until they break and upgrade to chroma alloy shafts, looking to run 35s or 36s as of what im feeling now, ive learned that with anything over 36s they are more beneficial when they are aired down to single digits which means id need 16.5 beadlocks which between the heavy wheels and tires im gonna be breaking stuff left and right, ill just forget the body lift so it doesnt look ridiculous with all the extra wheel well room. i would LOVE to run firestone destinations as they are the best tire ive ever owned when i had them on my first 2500 but they only go up to 33s, if they had 35s or 36s i wouldnt even be asking this question because im looking to run all terrains or mud terrains with it such as AT2s or T/A KOs maybe some MTRs for all around use or should i have a pair of dedicated street tires and then some bias ply TSLs for the weekend trail rides? sorry to change the subject but figured it would be better than reposting a new forum

 

U just want to watch weight of the tires and rims going 35" or bigger, or you going have to be pretty gentle on the skinny pedal.

just a heads up, i have waggy front, waggy leafs sprung over and ord kit, my driveshaft angle is pretty bad up front, using stock caster of waggy. adding the 2.5 lift springs are going to compound that if you go sprung over in front.

 

Yea the front leaf springs im using up front are basically flat and even with the shackles up front on my truck to help with pinion angles i had to grind the stops off the cv joint section of my front drive shaft cause they were slightly hitting at full drop. 2 sets of tires wouldnt be a bad idea. Bias plys wear pretty quick on the road. Also maybe having a set of stock tires too to help u pass inspection

 

yeah i was feeling shooting the pinion up towards the transfer case a little bit to assist the angle of the driveshaft and was gonna use a CV type driveshaft to combat the rest, as for the tires i was thinking of getting some crapo tiger paws or something of the sort from sears to throw on for inspection and then have atleast a set of all-terrains for daily use, probably a set of T/A KOs or AT2s cause i have owned both and they are phenomenal in the snow ive driving in and seem to handle all the trails ive thrown at it in my stock 2500 and previous blazer. i think for what its worth the bias plys are pointless cause the all-terrains do what i need it to do cause i USUALLY stay outta the mud, and if i do get stuck i plan on having a steel winch bumper on it anyways, but im just ranting at this point, guess i just want to know if ill reach the point of how high i want to be that ill be exceeding my negative caster angle in the front so ill have to really lock down and use some elbow grease to turn the wheels around a street corner?

 

if it gets to point of having to rotate the front axle alot your probably going to have to cut off the axle c's the parts with the ball joints in them and rotate it. cause y eah when you turn youll actually be fighting downward and lifting the truck up

 

yeah i know id have to end up rotating them if it gets to that point and well frankly, as much as i dont mind overhauling the axles with new gears, lockers, chroma alloy shafts, bearings and seals, something tells me the cutting and re-welding of the Cs are something i am gonna dread doing, or am i making it seem worse than it really is? all in all i just want to save myself more work than need be, if i can get away with lifting it to fit 36s and not have serious binding at the yokes ill be a happy camper or do you honestly think ill get to that point if i do wanna run 36s with rancho 2.5" lift springs?