Body Lift
 

Hey guys sorry if this already exists but I didn't find it anywhere, I've finally decided I'm going to do the 2" bl from performance accessories then torsion bars up around 1.5" and 2" lift shackles. So my question is how hard is the body lift to install.

If you have any mechanical skill at all I would put it at a 4 if the body bolts come out easy. If your under is a rust factory about a 9.5.

Just start oiling all the bolts everyday for a week or 2 before time.

Yeah...what he said.
i did mine ...it took me one full day.
Start pb blasting those bolts if its a 4 door there are 12 mount points.
the two that are hard to see are above the axle.
Download the pdf file now and start looking it over...its a pretty straight forward job.
Just take you time and double check each step.

great video dude!! lol

Thanks Old skool soldier, your video is actually what got me wondering about it, how long did it take you to do?

yea about a day if by youself, and all goes o.k., i had a impact gun to help,
i think i would have been screwed with out it, i did forget about to two bolts above the axle,started raising the rear and was wondering why the heck the body is not moving from the chassis, doooh wata dumb A***

Thanks okiedoak mine will probably look like yours but it's a 96 Chevy and slightly different silver. I do have mechanical knowledge and my friends are cheap labor/owe me a lot of favors so it sounds like it shouldn't be a problem. I just didn't wanna get halfwy through and find out I'm in over my head. Now just gotta get some money together and set some time aside

all in all its kinda easy and straight forward, just somtimes those bolts get tight,almost like they have a locktite on them, and with-out the impact gun
it would have been not fun at all, keep us posted, and dont forget about some before and after pics:icon_dance-cpatch:

I have access to any and all air tools I want or could need because my dads a mechanic. But not exactly on board with the aspirations for my blazer. So it might be a little while before I get it done

Kenny, this was my first big project, so I worked all day on a Friday, and a Saturday on it. Mind you, I followed the instructions that Performance Accessories included, to a 'T'.(more or less) Also, I was working by myself, taking a few trips to the tool store. I'd say aim for a weekend project if you start in the AM right till dusk. P.S We should sticky this video I made to help others

-OSS

Yeah that's what I was going to do is start on a Saturday or Friday after work and go until its done. I don't know how to sticky a video.

Just FYI if yours is a 96 some of the steps in the video will be a little different for you. I did mine and it took me 2 days because i started later in the day the first day. But it was pretty easy and my bolts weren't rusted so they came out easily with a breaker bar.

a couple things to watch out for is make sure you undo to wire bundle from the drivers side frame that goes to the rear of the truck. in the instructions it just says both sides of the frame and that kind of confused me because the step before had you in the engine bay. And also the rear bumper bolts are connected together so dont think you can take one out at a time like i tried. And also make sure you cut the bumper bracket perfectly or else getting the bumper back on will be a pain.

Thank you for the info cherry blazer

My first 1st gen took 3 hours drinking beer. I had an electric fan so I didn't have to mess with that. I soaked all the bolts down daily for 2 weeks before time. I also was building offroad bumpers so I didn't mod the factory ones to be raised.

i also wanna do this mod and replace all the factory rubber bushings to urithane for added strength. my question is what are some of the issues u run into doing this. i read the instructions on how to do the lift but theres always things u run into. i heard u need a new longer steering shaft or does the factory one extend to the length needed.

You don't need anything that doesn't come in the kit. Well, becides tools

I swapped from rubber to urethane when I done the body lift. Best time to swap mounts if you are gonna do it. With the 3 inch my stock steering shaft was long enough.

If you have headers you might have problems. My 60 degree headers I had to mod where the shift lever hit after the lift with a small dent. Other than that they fit fine but non of the tubes wrap the steering like they do on 90 degree engines.

So your steering don't bind a little bit on your first gen after the body lift neo , just asking because mine did bind just a little bit . And also when I did the lift all my cab mounts were good but the 3 inch lift cylinders drove them selfs right through the cab mounts , so if your doing this you might want to put some kind of plate on top of the lift blocks to spread out the force . And as far as doing the body lift , it was a piece of cake .

Alright gentlemen, its been awhile I know, but my PA body lift was given to me today for Christmas, the old man finally came around, he also made the mistake of offering me up his 31's. So now for the question, I have both stock 4wd rims as well as 2wd rims with the different offset, which rims would cause the least rubbing or am i just going to either way, I believe the 4wd's will rub sway bar and frame and the 2wd's would rub more fender. Also planning on 2" shackle and 1.5" tbar crank to help clear a little bit.

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I believe it's all personal opinion. Go for what you like better. Personally I think a wider stance with tire sticking out of the fender well looks great! So I have 'Maro wheels with 4.5 or so inch backspacing. This backspacing is close to the 2wd rims. If you plan on doing the body lift and t-bar crank then it won't really matter which way you decide to go. You should clear both with 31s and no rubbing. If there is rubbing, it will be minimal after both of those lifting methods. Good luck!

Alright thank you Tibby, yeah I kinda like the wider look too

U will still rub some on the lower part of the fenders if u have a deep offset rim. I have a 2 inch body lift and 2.5 inch rough country lift with 4.5 inch offset rims and 31 inch tires and I had to mod the fenders a lot. If u do a lot of normal road driving it will be ok but if u hit a lot of bumps while turning it will rub a lot or if u offroad

I'm hoping being that I have the Z85 package like Tibby does maybe I wont rub as much, but if i have to trim my fenders a little bit that is not a huge issue, appreciate the advice and warning

Does the fan hit the lower shroud after the body lift?

no, they come with spacers

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Not necessarily, it's on a blazer to blazer basis. My fan hit the shroud a bit whenever I would turn in reverse. Yes it sounds weird but that is what happened. So just watch out for little things that might happen. Didn't take too long to correct it, but it did make an annoying sound whenever it did hit.

Are you sure you dont have a bad motor mount? OR a bad tranny mount?

x2, it should never hit the shroud, if it does I'd say there was something else wrong to begin with.

I am ordering a body lift just wondering if there is interior stuff you need to do to get the body mount bolts out and does it mess with shifting linkage?

Only if they break taking them out. I had one break and had to make an access hole in my floor.

Shift linkage will be fine.

Hey im planing an a body lift 2 inches do i need to o any interer stuff what will it do the shifting linkage

Do i need to do interior things when doing a body lift 98 jmc jimmy what does it do to shifting linkage?? And one help me 2 inches do i need any steering things

Here's the instructions for the PA 2" Body Lift. Everything you need is in the kit.

http://www.performanceaccessories.co...ctions/152.pdf

Do you need to lengthen steering lincage with a 2 inch body lift 98 gmc jimmy?

No to both questions. All body bolts are completely accessible from the exterior. It is FAIRLY straight forward. Take off bumpers grill and skid plate. Disconnect anything that is attached to both the core support and the engine. Disconnect fuel neck from body. remove bolts from one side. Jack up place blocks and new bolts. Repeat for other side. Extend fuel necks. replace everything and use supplied relocation brackets when needed.

P.S. you will need a drill and a sawzaw to drill holes for 4x4 actuator and bumper brackets and to trim the bumper to clear brackets.

Read over the instructions. Take your time and give yourself enough time. One step at a time.

I'm still waiting on my father to get the body lift done, its sitting in my room, going to do it in spring. I keep debating also doing the generic 2" shackle and tbar crank, but am going to wait until the body is on to see if I want more, or need more clearance.

How about my brushguard its bolted to the frame?

I believe it just depends check out this thread:
https://blazerforum.com/forum/liftin...h-guard-69127/