Body lift advice?
#1
Body lift advice?
I have a stock 01 blazer 4door 4WD, and I am getting ready to lift it next week. I have seen help questions posted for body lifts, but have not seen any posts from people with the same truck. Im mechanically savy, and was wondering how long I can expect installing a PA 2" bodylift to take, and problems/advice associated with this lift on my truck.
Also, I was under the impression that going to 4.5" backspacing would help prevent rubbing. But after reading multiple wheel threads I am a little confused? Thanks in advance.
I have ordered The body lift, shackles, Pro Comp es9000 shocks, 31/10.50 Goodyear Duratracs on 15/8 Pro Comp 52 series Rockcrawlers with 4.5" backspacing, and will crank t-bars. Will post before and after pics.
Also, I was under the impression that going to 4.5" backspacing would help prevent rubbing. But after reading multiple wheel threads I am a little confused? Thanks in advance.
I have ordered The body lift, shackles, Pro Comp es9000 shocks, 31/10.50 Goodyear Duratracs on 15/8 Pro Comp 52 series Rockcrawlers with 4.5" backspacing, and will crank t-bars. Will post before and after pics.
#2
ok, its not really that bad.
worst case is the bolts give you trouble.
just read the instructions and take your time....i did mine solo in about 10hrs give take...but i was not in any hurry and double checked everything i did.
honestly to me the shackle swap was a bigger p.i.t.a. than the body lift. the bushings for the shackles can be terrible to get out.
now for the body lift soak the bolts with some pb blaster everyday for the week leading up to the job...it seemed to help me (or i got lucky)
now tbars.....i would say 1.5" max, but its up to you. seems like more than that and you are asking for trouble.
when you do crank the tbars watch the cv boots for slippage/leaking.
mine leaked about 1 month after the crank. luckily i caught it and removed the factory clamps on the boots and repacked them with lube and used adjustable clamps. been running like that for over a year no problems. i did a little write up on that cheap fix.
as for the wheels...well this is were my advice stops...running stocks still. with 31" tires.....2" shackles and 2" body lift.
good luck.
worst case is the bolts give you trouble.
just read the instructions and take your time....i did mine solo in about 10hrs give take...but i was not in any hurry and double checked everything i did.
honestly to me the shackle swap was a bigger p.i.t.a. than the body lift. the bushings for the shackles can be terrible to get out.
now for the body lift soak the bolts with some pb blaster everyday for the week leading up to the job...it seemed to help me (or i got lucky)
now tbars.....i would say 1.5" max, but its up to you. seems like more than that and you are asking for trouble.
when you do crank the tbars watch the cv boots for slippage/leaking.
mine leaked about 1 month after the crank. luckily i caught it and removed the factory clamps on the boots and repacked them with lube and used adjustable clamps. been running like that for over a year no problems. i did a little write up on that cheap fix.
as for the wheels...well this is were my advice stops...running stocks still. with 31" tires.....2" shackles and 2" body lift.
good luck.
#3
What bolts do I soak? I have done 3 suspension lifts on other vehicles, but never a body lift. I have fully researched t-bar cranking and won't go more than 1.5", but the bit about the boots is helpful, so thanks for that.
I have a buddy helping me and a mechanical lift to use in the shop, so that should make things easier since I can almost stand underneath and get better leverage, instead of crawling around underneath.
I have a buddy helping me and a mechanical lift to use in the shop, so that should make things easier since I can almost stand underneath and get better leverage, instead of crawling around underneath.
#4
you need to locate the body mount bolts.
2 above rear axle
3 on each side between wheels
2 at rear of frame
10 total i believe.
look for the p.a. body lift instructions pdf ...google
download and look thru it. very helpful stuff.
yeah, i did mine with wood spacers on floor jacks....fun fun fun.
2 above rear axle
3 on each side between wheels
2 at rear of frame
10 total i believe.
look for the p.a. body lift instructions pdf ...google
download and look thru it. very helpful stuff.
yeah, i did mine with wood spacers on floor jacks....fun fun fun.
#5
Soak the bolts as stated above. Give yourself at least a day if not two just incase you run out of daylight. A buddy is nice to have to help and offer another set of eyes on the project. Air tools will make your day very comfortable. Check all your brake lines and wires and such during lifting the body, and after before you drive it. That's really about it.
Oh yeah almost forgot the three MOST IMPORTANT STEPS of installing a bodylift.....
Take some pictures when your done, go get it dirty, then snap another picture!
Oh yeah almost forgot the three MOST IMPORTANT STEPS of installing a bodylift.....
Take some pictures when your done, go get it dirty, then snap another picture!
#6
The shop has a hydrolic lift, air tools, and is well lit. Always a good perk of the military, most bases have a nice auto shop to use. I will be taking before, after, and after testing pics and post them.
#7
Im still confused about the wheel backspacing. Let me clarify, I understand what backspacing is. But, I am using Pro Comp wheels with 4.5" backspace to gain a wider stance, and thought that would help prevent rubbing. Is that not the case?
#8
Must be nice to have a lift and garage and all that... . Thanks for your service btw!
The lower backspace will help with rubbing on the frame and swaybar. But it will rub fender and fender flare easier. More backspace makes the wheels set in more towards the frame. Lower backspace pulls them away from the frame. But then they are outside of the wheel well and rub when turning. Sorta a damned if you do damned if you don't situation. Ha ha
The lower backspace will help with rubbing on the frame and swaybar. But it will rub fender and fender flare easier. More backspace makes the wheels set in more towards the frame. Lower backspace pulls them away from the frame. But then they are outside of the wheel well and rub when turning. Sorta a damned if you do damned if you don't situation. Ha ha
#9
Thanks for the strait explanation. Now That I have all the parts, its time to get crackin.
#10
Good luck! Just post if you hit a snag or anything.
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BlazHerZR2
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10-19-2011 12:10 PM