hey guys..i was at advanced auto parts the other day and they have 2" lift blocks and u-bolts to lift the rear for only 30 bucks and coil spring boosters to lift the front 2" for like 10 bucks...What do you guys think? Would you suggest i try it or is it not even worth..i mean id love to only pay 40 bucks and get a 2" lift but what do you guys think about it?

 

if you have an s10 its gonna lower it 2 inches. the springs are under the axle.

 

no it has 2 functions u can either clip the springs together to lower it or spread them apart to lift it...its an s-10 blazer

 

what do you guys think would it be worth it ? AND would a 2" body lift even be very noticeable cuz i can get one for 200 bucks or should i save for a 500 suspension lift....or will the cheap lift i was talking about work fine?

 

The cheap way will never be the right way in my mind. The rear end is the easy part to lift/drop. The front end however is where most of the expense comes from. Cheap coil expanders are not the way to achieve a front end lift. This will reduce the effectiveness of the spring as well as stress the spring MUCH more than it was ever designed to. Now, if I can decypher your screen name, then you have a 2000 4x4 blazer. Your front end does not have coil springs. It has a torsion bar setup. This setup really needs to be engineered for a lift - ie. you should buy a kit that is specifically made for the vehicle. As with any lift, the center of gravity will be raised by the same amount, making the vehicle even more top heavy and worse when turning. Because of this, you really don't want to cheap out, especially when your safety is taken into account.

My question would have to be what do you want out of your suspension?

 

i was talking about the rear. if you put the blocks between the spring pack and axle, you'll go down 2 inches. to lift the rear your choices are springs or axle flip kit(flips the springs on top of the axle to lift it the thickness of the axle and spring pack). neither are cheap. and like swart said, you have torsion bars out front. the "cheapest" way to go would be a body lift. but in my opinion they look like crap cause the frame will be hanging down so low. so i say spend the extra money and do it right. you'll be happy you did.

 

hey guys your advice is REALLY helping me i just have one more question....what i really want is just for my blazer to look a little "beefier" kinda like a zr2....if i get a 2" body lift will my blazer look that much bigger or would it look a lot better with a 2" suspension lift...i only want to go 2" and if a 2" body lift will be noticeable id be fine wiht that i was jsut wondering cuz someone told me if you put a 2" body lift it will still look pretty stock and you cant really tell u have one

 

Just as an asside, when I bought my Bravada, the ride height in the back was sagging. It was bad enough that you could feel it hit the bump stops with just me in the car (and I don't weight that much). I put on a set of Monroe Sensa-Trak Load Assist shocks that add 250lb of spring rate to the rear end and that lifted it atleast 1.5 inches in the rear. I think that in my case, the spring were starting to sag (get weaker). Once these shocks wear out, I'm going to get a set of springs made up for the rear that add in the 250lbs right in the spring pack. There is a company near me that will make up springs for anything at around $100 per spring pack. You can specify spring rate, lift/drop over stock, etc. They are great.

Back to your questions. The body lift would be the cheapest and easiest way to accomplish a 2" lift. A suspension lift will always look better than a body lift. For the mean-ness factor, I would have to say that a suspension lift would look much meaner (is that a word...lol) than a body lift.

Now, for an even easier way to make your truck look mean... Go with the largest/widest tire that can fit and can be corrected for (computer wise). Tires can make or break a truck. Also, you could put on a brush guard up front to add to the effect. Both of these are easy to do and would be cheaper than a suspension lift (not cheaper than a body lift if you do the work yourself).

 

I would have to agree.
In stock form you could run 30" mud tires on the stock rims and not rub anywhere. Add a grill gaurd and your truck will look very similar to mine. Except I run BFG All-Terrains, I drive at least 80 miles per day. The BFG all-terrians do amazingly well on and off-road.
http://chevytruckworld.tenmagazines....nr2/137468.jpg
http://offroadworld.tenmagazines.com...nr3/117433.jpg

With a 2" lift you can run 31" tires.

To get the tires to stick out some, change the wheel backspacing. When you buy your wheels get 15X8" with a 4" backspacing and neutral offset. They will stick out some and give it that wider stance, similar to a ZR2. Do the 2" body lift and run 31/10.5R15 mud tires on the 15x8" rims. I think you'll be happy with the look and extremely surprised at how well she does off-road. I prefer either BFG or Goodyear mud tires on a DD, decent longevity with minimal road noise compared to other mud tires, and good performance both on and off-road. If the gap between the frame and body bothers you, you could buy the gap kit from Performance Accessories for like $70, or go to your nearest farm supply store and buy agricultural belt. It comes in 4" wide and 10" wide by as many feet long as you want. At least that is the way it is at my farm supply store. Cost is $1.80 per foot for the 4" wide stuff, and $4.50 for the 10" stuff. I think that will give you the look your looking for at minimum cost.

 

One other thing.
You could crank your torsion bars up about 1" to 1 1/2" max., and get some 2" shackles for the rear springs. That will give you some lift. Realize that any time you crank your torsion bars you are stiffening up the ride and reducing the longevity of the suspension, steering components up front.