alright i finally have a question i couldnt get a answer from using the search so i just lifted my 98 blazer during the process i broke a sway bar end link to me it was a no biggie iv had several vehicles with one or two broken and never really had a issue well anyway i drove a couple days with the driverside end link broke and still had half of the end link attached every time i turn full **** to the right the sway bar grinds on my factory rim still hsve factory tires also 235/75/15 so i replaced the end link and still same issue of grindind on full **** right turns could by some chance with driving around a couple days cause my sway bar to get into a bind on bumps and bend a little also i had to remove the rear sway bar to make room for my shocks i have 2" shackle and 2" add a leaf is there a sway bar out there i can use with larger diameter shocks and my final question im going with 33x12.5 tires no if's and's or but's can someone give me a clear cut answer to what backspacing on rim's to use for very little to no rub my tires sticking out a little will be a big plus for me anyways

 

my 32x11.5's rub frame as full lock with 15x7 rims and 4.5 backspacing.
I have 3" body and 1"tb crank, I won't clear 33x12.5's so you need decent lift.

 

the lift is already taken care of i know i got plenty of room for the tires just need the right backspacing if my factory 15x7 rims have a 6" back spacing if i go to a 15x8 rim in order to get a factory stance (just saying ) i would have to go with a 5" backspacing am i on the right track here so if a 15x7 rim with a 4" backspacing would cause the tire to stick out from the fender 2" so a 15x8 rim with a back spacing of 3" cause it to also stick out from the fender 2" am i somewhere close to the fight track or just blowin smoke out my ***

 

4" backspacing means the mounting surface is 4" from the inside of the rim. so if you increase the rim by 1" in theory a 4.5" backspacing will put 1/2" on the inside and 1/2" on the outside.

a 3" backspacing will push the rim outwards an inch(3" sticking out) and if you add an extra inch onto the rim it will stick out 4"(goin off your 2" on a 15x7 with 4" backspacing)
a 5" backspacing on a 15x8 rim will be similar to how my rims sit (15x7 with a 4.5" backspacing) my rear tires tuck and don't rub, my fronts rub frame(32x11.5") with a wider rim and a wider tire/taller tire, you WILL rub the frame.

some people make the steering stops prevent from turning that sharp, others notch the frame(and strengthen of course)


example 7'' wide rim with 4.5" backspacing will have 4.5" on the inside, 2.5" on the outside

8" wide rim with 5" backspacing will have 5 on the inside, 3 on the outside evenly adding 1/2 inch to both side, minimizing the change in stance

I'm not a tire expert and I don't really know how much it will effect the tire..

offset it where the hub mounting surface is in relation to the the center of the rim. +33mm offset (example from our colorado) mounts 33mm outwards from the center of the rim. 0 offset is dead center(which would be 4" backspacing on a 8" wide rim) and a negative offset means it's mounted towards the inward of the center of the rim.

 

yea if you get 15x8's you would have to find a rim with 7 inches of backspacing to compensate for the extra inch added on the rim width. if you are lifting your truck you aren't going to want to keep the stock stance that will make your truck a lot more vulnerable to flipping. you should probably go with 15x8 inch rims with 4 inches of backspacing to have a safe stand with a lift and 33's. and plus if you get rims that stick out more you will have less of a chance rubbing the frame.