I try not to do new threads, and have searched around the web for monthes and have no other option. I have done a 3 inch body lift on my 92. And the gap between the bumper and the body is killing my soul. I know that trailmaster used to make brackets for them. But alot of people said they were flimsy and not the best quality. Plus they don't make them anymore and no one has any laying around apparently. I have found drawings for Explorers and other vehicles but not mine. I was wondering if someone could give me some drawings so I could give them to a machinest to make them, or better yet, could someone that has experince in this make a set for me? I thought about going to a local 4x4 shop that does custom fabrication work and seeing if they could make some. But I thought I'd try through the forum before I went that route. I'd make em myself, but I have no welder or power tools or experince. I can do shocks and bulbs and general maintance, but if it takes more than a BFH, socket, wrench, and brute strenth, I'm screwed. (hints the name!)

 

well, you'll need a welder for sure on this one brother.

i did the same thing to my friend's '94 2 door Blazer. the front brackets were easy, just unbolt them from the frame and cut the bottom edge off of them. this will allow the brackets to be moved upwards, and then you just weld them in place (and brace them a little). for the rear bumper, i just cut the top edge of the frame (outwards), folded it up (now it's vertical)and used a square piece of tubing. welded to the frame, and then drill new holes for the bumper to bolt to.

 

Yeah the only option is to cut, weld, and brace the front. On the rear I know with the 2 inch you are supposed to be able to flip the brackets upside down and they work. Might try that but cut them in half and re-weld them and inch up and brace.


Or just do the lazy way and make custom bumpers that already line up like I did, lol. The 3 inch lift really changes the look of a blazer for the better.

 

Thats a great idea. It's just that with the front valence, and the rear being so low, it almost doesn't look lifted unless you see the wheel well is more open (and of cource I haven't made any gap guards yet, so you can see the upper shock mounts, gas tank, headers and such from the side.) But I'll try that for the rear fo now. I've got some 16x8 95 Camaro wheels to go on it, just need some 265/70/16 tires for them. Plus, my ex girlfriends uncle told me he ordered a kit off ebay that has the brackets, and I'm gonna see if I can snap some pics and maybe have someone fab some up. Thanks for the replies and keep any opinions coming! I agree, it really helps the look of the blazer, and not many people around here do anything with s10 blazers. So it just stands out so much. The only ones you see around here are the 3 or 4 lowered ones, and the rest are rusted beyond repair beaters. I get compliments on mine all the time, espically for being completly rust free (except for 2 inches on the rear of the rocker panels, fixing that next spring.)

 

I made my own gap guards with 1/4 thick rubber conveyor belt I had laying around. I also ran mine without the front spoiler.

 

The guy that helped me put the body lift on told me to use agriculture belt like that also. I just rigged up a #200-700 shotgun Airaid intake on it. It's the kind like the fullsize trucks use, but with some inginuity, it works fine. Thought about making a thread about it to put up with the caddilac hat thread from s10forum thats on here. Had to remove the ring that had the pcv hose going to it. And put an elbow connector so it would connect to the TBI hat on the airaid kit. Also with that ring the hold down stud wasn't long enough. JC Whitney had it for $105 and it looks good. Once I get the back glass fixed and drive it some I'll make a thread about my opinion. Here's a some pics hope to get some better ones soon.