Lifting Tech This section is for suspension questions related to increasing the ride height of your vehicle.

Its Lifted but i have Questions.

  #1  
Old 11-30-2014, 03:56 PM
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Default Its Lifted but i have Questions.

First things first
2002 Blazer
2dr
4wd
2" lift shackles in the rear
tbars cranked in the front.
31" COOPER DISCOVERER A/T3

Its been this way for a couple years not and I'm sick of some of the things i deal with. For Starters i go through CVs like crazy, I rub at full tilt, rides pretty ruff, est. I was seeing if there is a lift kit out there that will fix the cv problem maybe a front pumpkin drop? i'm not sure. I did some looking around and couldn't figure it out.
I would change my shackles and undue the tbars but my tires are a little over a year old and i do not want to get new tires just to lower my ride.
I also need help on choosing new shocks for the back considering they are Original and about worn out with 80XXX on them.

Thanks for your help!
 
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Old 11-30-2014, 07:00 PM
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If you lifted your truck to put bigger tires, did you need bigger tires or just want bigger tires. Im a big proponent for keeping your truck within its suspension design parameters or REALLY knowing what you are getting into with a desire to improve. That being said the best shock for the rear is Koni double adjustable, but they are real expensive REAL expensive. Prolly the best shock for mortal man is monroe although my persional feeling is they could do with more rebound damping and less compression damping. JMHO
 
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Old 11-30-2014, 07:41 PM
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"tbars cranked in the front" There's the problem.

Each steering linkage and suspension component has a range of motion that it was designed to operate within. When front chassis ride height is out of spec, many of the components are pushed beyond their designed limit: Both torsion bars, all 4 CV joints, all 4 ball joints, both shock absorbers and both outer tie rod ends are all affected by incorrect ride height. Expect these parts to wear out prematurely when front chassis ride height is not within factory specifications.

Front chassis ride height is the vertical distance between the lowest, most inboard point, of the steering knuckle, to the center of the lower control arm pivot bolt.


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1996 &newer:

4WD (exceptZR2) = 4.6 to 5.0 (4.8 is preferred)

4WD ZR2 = 4.6" to 5.2" (4.9" is preferred)

The easiest way to measure, is make sure the vehicle is on a level surface, (front to rear and side to side). Measure from the knuckle to the ground, and from the pivot bolt to the ground. Subtract the knuckle to ground measurement from the pivot bolt to ground measurement, and the result equals front chassis ride height. Get it within spec by adjusting the torsion bars, and the CV's will last MUCH longer.


EDIT: If the tires still rub, you'll need to determine which is cheaper, tires or CV's


 

Last edited by Captain Hook; 11-30-2014 at 07:47 PM.
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Old 12-01-2014, 03:30 AM
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A good lift kit will lower the front differential helping to fix the angle of your axles. and you`ll be able to back of the tbar crank helping even more and giving you a softer ride also
 
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Old 12-01-2014, 04:42 PM
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Thanks for the info on the shocks and every thing.
Do the shocks need to be different then the OEM replacement?...
Sorry that is worded awkwardly, what I'm trying to say is do the shocks have to be longer then stock?
Do any of you know what kit would help the front end out?
 
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Old 12-01-2014, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by LeWhite View Post
If you lifted your truck to put bigger tires, did you need bigger tires or just want bigger tires. Im a big proponent for keeping your truck within its suspension design parameters or REALLY knowing what you are getting into with a desire to improve. That being said the best shock for the rear is Koni double adjustable, but they are real expensive REAL expensive. Prolly the best shock for mortal man is monroe although my persional feeling is they could do with more rebound damping and less compression damping. JMHO
And I was in need of tires badly and did not do enough research before lifting and buying tires... therefore it was a quick buy tires, make shackles, crank tbars, and get an alignment. So basically i wanted bigger tires and a decent size lift.
 
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Old 12-01-2014, 04:56 PM
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the rough country 2.5 lift would help you. it comes with upper arms and drop brackets for the front. also with this kit when i installed mine i left my bars at that same level as when i removed them with the new keys giving the lift instead of putting max pressure on the bars themselfs. seems to be a solid kit ive been runnin it for 10k now and seems to be holding up. no parts have failed on me yet and im running a 31x10.5 on my stock wheels and its drives about the same as it did before the lift. only thing i did not like about the kit i got was the press in ***** that came installed in the arms the rubber boot wouldnt stay in place so you cant fill it with grease.
 
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Old 12-01-2014, 05:02 PM
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Old 12-01-2014, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 05canjimmy View Post
the rough country 2.5 lift would help you. it comes with upper arms and drop brackets for the front. also with this kit when i installed mine i left my bars at that same level as when i removed them with the new keys giving the lift instead of putting max pressure on the bars themselfs. seems to be a solid kit ive been runnin it for 10k now and seems to be holding up. no parts have failed on me yet and im running a 31x10.5 on my stock wheels and its drives about the same as it did before the lift. only thing i did not like about the kit i got was the press in ***** that came installed in the arms the rubber boot wouldnt stay in place so you cant fill it with grease.
How did that kit correct CV joint misalignment. What does the kit do with the center link, pitman arm and idler. Sounds like the negative camber gain gets real bad.
 
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Old 12-01-2014, 06:37 PM
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The kit comes with brackets that drop the front differential which should keep CV's within spec. BUT, when the differential is lowered, you have to question front pinion angle and drive shaft joint angles. Instead of eating the half shaft CV's, it might eat the front universal joint, or CV joint at the transfer case. The pitman arm, center link and idler arm all remain in the OEM position, not sure what they do for the increased angle on the outer tie rod ends. My advice???? If you want 31's and a taller truck, go buy a Silverado
 

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