QFT
{ If you want 31's and a taller truck, go buy a Silverado .}

If that kit lowers the LCA frame pickup point, replaces the UCA but doesnt lower its pickup point, the camber curve sux big time. If the kit does lower the UCA pickup point and doesnt lower the center link the bump steer is doing who knows what? At some point shorter tires start looking better and we havent even examined the rear.

 

Captain could be right( not doubting him) about the driveshaft angle although I or anyone else I know have had any problems. Same for the the tierods. All in all, lowering the differential is still better than cranking the crap out off your tbars. ( or lowering your truck)Why buy an offroad truck and lower it? Lived in fla. for a while and quite a few laughs at them down there

 

Couple things:

#1 Bump steer is the result of the center link not being level. Both the idler arm and the pitman arm, (via the steering gear) are bolted to the frame. They are what support the center link on each end. The idler arm mounting holes are larger than the attaching bolts, making the arm "adjustable". That's how the center link is leveled, (loosen it up, level the center link, tighten it up). Needs to be checked/adjusted whenever the idler arm or steering gear is replaced

#2 When the frame is lifted, (not to be confused with a body lift) the center link goes up with the frame. This increases the angle from the inner tie rod end, where it attaches to the center link, to the outer tie rod end where it attaches to the steering knuckle. The inner tie rod end stud is horizontal, so it's not affected by frame height. BUT, the outer tie rod end is vertical. Too much angle can pop the ball out of the socket, which can make for a scary ride

#3 Basically the same scenario with the drive shafts: They are also affected by frame height. When the frame goes up, driveshaft angle increases. When the angle increases, so does the wear factor. This can be compensated for by rotating the differentials, usually done with shims.

The main thing is to keep front chassis ride height within spec. But, throw enough time and or money at it, and any obstacle can be overcome. I'm just pointing out the facts so you can make an educated decision. Engineering is not as simple as it seems

 

but at the same time(not disagreeing with Hook) if you lift your truck all these little things will wear more then stock. At the end of the day IMO if you want a lifted truck your going to pay for it and if you dont wanna pay for it the leave it stock

 

And if your gonna lift it, put in quality parts

 

Cap'n: do you have the proper Z ride hight dimention for the Xtreme ZQ8? I think this is the best suspension the General has to offer on the platform. The difference is the knuckle is above the LCA. Thanks in advance

 

LeWhite, dug around in some files and can't find anything specifying Xtreme's. The only thing I can find is with and without ZR2 / Z85. Not sure if those specs include Xtreme's though.

 

Thanks every body for helping out. I've decided to get the rough country lift to help with the ride and everything. i'll be letting know know when i get it and updates when it goes on if any of you would like to know.

 

Good for you, yes we like updates and pictures!

 

Every thing i ordered came in the mail today but I'm getting new cvs does any one have a brand they like that lasts longer? And do i need to get the zr2 cvs now?