Trying to figure out what would be best. I have a 98 Blazer 2 door, would it be easier and smarter to put the RC 2.5 suspension lift and maybe a bl on it. Or should I make the leap an go all out on a SAS.
Personally I would rather have something that takes less time, but I don't wanna be dumping tons of money into it month after month. Let me know what your opinions are.

 

These are estimates! Don't take it too seriously...

Well the body lift and rough country 2.5 will cost:

$220 body lift materials
$300 body lift install
$430 Rough Country 2.5
$300 Rough Country 2.5

$1250 for both installed

Versus

$2000 SAS Swap materials
Then whatever for the cost of labor

 

SAS in my opinion , is the only way to go , I have a buddie that put the RC 2.5 lift in a full size chevy and he said it was a pain in the rear . I'm doing a SAS swap on my 94 s10 right now , I need to still get a few things but I'm just about ready to get it in there . As far as I can tell it should be a peice of cake , check out my build thread I update it often , and I have the kit , axles and most everything to do it .

 

I'd be doing it all myself. So I'd be saving on that aspect. And I had a dodge Dakota with 9 inches of lift running 36s and I went through wheel bearings every 3-6 months

 

in the long run a sas would be cheaper for u to run. may be more up front but worth it in the end.

 

Are you doing it for looks and occassional offroading or are you building an offroad beast?

As an additional cost you may have not figured in would be regearing, depending on what your current gears are and the size of tires you plan on running.

 

That's what I did when I lifted my Dakota. Regeared with the bigger tires. As for now I want a good looking vehicle and an occasional off roader. I don't plan on running huge tires. Maybe 33s Depending on funds

 

You could probably fit 33s with the 2.5 ifs lift and the body lift and A LOT of trimming. Or settle with 32s lol.

 

the whole reason i went with a sas is i previously owned a s10 with the stock suspension. i cut the fenders to fit 33s and even with the underpowerd 2.8 engine i was still breaking front cv joints like crazy. literally everytime i turned the wheel in 4wd. some people on here have made them last somehow but i didnt want to deal with that again

a sas can be easy and cheap or take you a year and costs thousands, theres so many variables.

heres a price list from my build

ront crossmember - free

astro van steering box - 19

both doors - 75

flat top knuckles - 18

6 leaf spring bolts 2 shackles and ubolts and nuts for axles - 93

flat top steering arm and stud kit $115

3x4 3/16 square tubing for rear hangers of front spring, 2 feet - $22

rear spring perches - 18

rear u-bolts - 38

power steering pressure hose 21

oil filter fitting (part to relocate oilfilter back to block)- 8

drag link - 86

welding - 195 (my welder sucks)

stainless steel brake lines and other brake stuff - 100

tie rod - 19

floor shifter for np208 from junkyard - 19

1 rear brake rotor - 40

rear shocks - 95

front f250 shock towers 28

front bumper 100

3x4 inch square tubing for front brackets 14

price so far including truck 4/19/08 - $1,473.00

thats not including the rims and tires which i had laying around including the axles, springs, and driveshafts. and some of that stuff you can take out like the brake rotor and doors lol. i was just doing a total build price tally

 

Doesn't seem too out of the question. May just get everything ready and put together then put it on the blazer.