nice!

i was wondering if the ZR bars were gonna do that. it helps to know. i stopped buy my spring guy yesterday to price a set of leafs. a pair of 5 pack leafs (heaviest duty according to his catalog, must be for the ZR2 then) were $230CAN-installed! and he'll make the arc to match whatever the front is with the 1" t-bar crank!!

gonna get a price for the bars, see what they're gonna set me back. has anybody ever used aftermarket bars before? any better-or worse??

 

I didn't know anyone made aftermarket torsion bars for these things. I talked to my friend that runs a JY and he has a set of 99 ZR2 torsion bars for me.

So it's just a matter of getting them shipped here and getting them on.

This is all starting to come together nicely.

 

It just sux because this is keeping me out of alignment. since the adjustment cams on the upper control arm are maxed out I have my choice of either having the camber out of spec, or the caster out of spec. I chose to have the caster set out of spec.

If i ever find a way to get more adjustment out of the upper control arm Ill post it up.

 

Maybe some shims between the Ball Joint and the control arm itself? To tilt it a bit?

 

Im pretty sure that that would just gain me a little extra height. Now if I had the option of loosening my t bars a bit to offset the height increase from the shims I could see being able to back the UCA adjusting cams off allowing the adjustment i need. But too bad so sad for me, my t bar bolts are all the way out.


Im pretty sure the only way of doing this is by gaining more horizontal adjustment from the UCA, or having an UCA that is about an inch longer.

But then again, i could be wrong...it happens quite a bit

anyone know if there is a difference between ZR2 upper control arms & the regular blazers?

 

between the bj & control arm?!? don't you mean the UCA piviot and the frame?

i'm kinda confused by your post there, do you need to bring the top of the tire out farther, or in more?

if you need to go out more, maybe you need to look for a new alignment guy. when i dumpped my LB, i had to add almost 1 3/8" of shims between the UCA piviot and the frame.

 

Different suspension setups. The UCA on these trucks has bolts at the pivot, not a cross shaft that then gets bolted on. Alignment is achieved by rotating a bolt which has an eccentric washer attached to the head. You can turn the bolt to change the position of the pivot point. But as found here, the stock adjustment may not be enough.

To jsmz, you are likely going to have to get a set of longer upper control arms. I can't remember which one it is, but one of the manufacturers includes longer UCA's in their kit so they are out there. If it were me, I'd make up a set.

How far out of spec are you?

 

Old skool maybe I misunderstood what the OP was referring to. I was thinking maybe he had maxed out the angle of the ball joint. I guess with out seeing it in person its sometimes easy to get confused.

From what I can gather the ZR2 UCA's are about 1" longer. It would be interesting to see the difference in the 2 UCA's.

 

my bad! i forgot the mounts for the cams were welded to the frame rails.

there ya go-just take a plasma cutter to them, and then re-weld them back on-after you put a 1" plate in there. better go with 1 1/4", give you some room for adjustment.

there's a Curtis fix for ya! hack 'n slash your way to stardom!!

 

its not bad, just the caster. But I would like it to be correct.

i posted pictures of my alignment printouts in this thread.
https://blazerforum.com/forum/lifting-tech-44/larger-caster-camber-adjustment-cams-38315/



I might have to look into the zr2 uca, just to see.