Set of Interco 33" 12.5 /15 for $150!
#11
It's hard to say if 33x10 would be any different than 33x12. I've heard of, and seen pictures, of 31's on stock wheels rubbing against the frame inside the wheel well. A narrower tire certainly would lower the chances but its still quite a bit taller than your stock ones so as you turn, the outer edges of the tire are moving a further distance. If you get a chance, turn your wheels all the way to one side, then crawl underneath and see if there's 2" of clearance between the edges of tires and the frame/swaybar-corner. 33" tires are ~4" taller than your current ones so thats 2" each side. (I hope all that makes sense)
nismo2005 and I both mentioned different offset wheels because that will help limit any rubbing to the outer edges of the fenders. However, like Chris (oldskoolluvr) pointed out, there are people with 33x12.5 on stock wheels who don't seem to have any problems.
nismo2005 and I both mentioned different offset wheels because that will help limit any rubbing to the outer edges of the fenders. However, like Chris (oldskoolluvr) pointed out, there are people with 33x12.5 on stock wheels who don't seem to have any problems.
#12
If you get a chance, turn your wheels all the way to one side, then crawl underneath and see if there's 2" of clearance between the edges of tires and the frame/swaybar-corner. 33" tires are ~4" taller than your current ones so thats 2" each side. (I hope all that makes sense)
nismo2005 and I both mentioned different offset wheels because that will help limit any rubbing to the outer edges of the fenders. However, like Chris (oldskoolluvr) pointed out, there are people with 33x12.5 on stock wheels who don't seem to have any problems.
nismo2005 and I both mentioned different offset wheels because that will help limit any rubbing to the outer edges of the fenders. However, like Chris (oldskoolluvr) pointed out, there are people with 33x12.5 on stock wheels who don't seem to have any problems.
Now, stock as it is, when I turn to the max, it's only 1.2" far from the swayB and very far from the frame on the front. As for the rear, it's a bit less than 2" away from the frame, so I guess I'll need new rims or spacers.
But you know what? I'll start with the TB cranking and shackles. Then what's next to do? Trim a bit of my fenders then mount the tires and see what happens? Or maybe I'll try and see if I can take only one of these tires mounted on one of my rims (I'll use the spare instead) and put it on the front for some measurements.
By the way, I found out that I can find 33" 9.5 /15 tires and one of them is the BF Goodrich's KO! That would be my plan B! It's only 1.6" higher than the ones I have now!
Chris, I don't like body lifts.
#13
#14
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 333

Is this going to be offroad only? cause if it is you. can ditch the sway bar
#15
#16
31x10.5 rubs on the sway and frame on stock rims, those 33s are gonna be worse. I highly doubt they will fit without a BL and a ton of cutting. On a first gen you don't have much room to cut out of the fender before your in the firewall anyways.
Nobody has mentioned the front diff in these things aint the strongest and 33's are gonna really be pushing it. I'd find a spare just to have on hand, preferably a cast iron one out of a well optioned 2nd gen if you plan on keeping bigger tires. Not all 2nd gens got the cast iron front diff and they are rather rare.
Nobody has mentioned the front diff in these things aint the strongest and 33's are gonna really be pushing it. I'd find a spare just to have on hand, preferably a cast iron one out of a well optioned 2nd gen if you plan on keeping bigger tires. Not all 2nd gens got the cast iron front diff and they are rather rare.
#17
31x10.5 rubs on the sway and frame on stock rims, those 33s are gonna be worse. I highly doubt they will fit without a BL and a ton of cutting. On a first gen you don't have much room to cut out of the fender before your in the firewall anyways.
Nobody has mentioned the front diff in these things aint the strongest and 33's are gonna really be pushing it. I'd find a spare just to have on hand, preferably a cast iron one out of a well optioned 2nd gen if you plan on keeping bigger tires. Not all 2nd gens got the cast iron front diff and they are rather rare.
Nobody has mentioned the front diff in these things aint the strongest and 33's are gonna really be pushing it. I'd find a spare just to have on hand, preferably a cast iron one out of a well optioned 2nd gen if you plan on keeping bigger tires. Not all 2nd gens got the cast iron front diff and they are rather rare.
https://blazerforum.com/forum/members/834x4s10on35-s-27441-albums-my-stock-heighth-blazer-tee-hee-2151/
He says that he only had to cut a lot off the body and has "very little rubbing it takes a pretty big hammer to make the body agree with the tires". But I think he also had the sway B taken out.
#18
Someone was telling me about an "upper ball joint spacer" that can give me some extra lift in the front. I searched for it on this forum but didn't find anything clear about it. Is it available for my truck? I could fabricate it if that would give me extra lift
#19
BF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Harrisburg PA
Posts: 3,133

you will need a body lift on top of the tbar crank to stuff 33's. good thing about your truck is its a first gen so they make a 3" body lift, you should be able to squeez them in with 5 inches of lift
#20
kinda sucks that he was really only here for about 6 weeks in total. no real chance to get to know him or his truck.
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Hunter66
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