Say I cranked up the torsion bars and put in a differential drop bracket...Would that solve the harsh CV angles and keep wear to stock standards? Would anything else still wear out faster?

 

yep thats the point of the differential drop bracket, and i think the CV angles are all you have to worry about when you do something like that so the drop bracket solves that

 

So then in theory, I could crank them all the way up and put in the diff. bracket..Then throw in the shackles and get 2" +/- all around?

 

yeah as long as its a 2 inch drop bracket. any size would help but yeah that should work

 

I dont do any of that crap but hasnt someone forgotten about suspension geometry, here?

 

Would you care to explain?

 

You got it all wrong here
You put in the diff drop brackets so you dont have to crank the t bars up
So say you buy the RC 2.5 lift kit. You get 2 inch shackles in back, then 2.5 up front. You can also crank your bars then, which would give you up to 5.5 up front, but that would be when you wear out cv's and everything

 

I thought the Diff. drop leveled out the cv angles when the torsion bars were cranked? Putting in just the drop bracket wouldn't raise it...?

 

Take a look at the bds suspension lift pdf. Look at the brackets in the kit.
Its not overly complicated so it should help ya see whats going on with the kit.
I installed mine and the cv's are level. Now granted they also give you hardware to relocate the control arms as well.

 

I've been looking into this a lot, and am fairly good with mechanical things, so here's my take :

Aside from a body lift, any lift in the front will change the suspension geometry. This will cause :

1) Added stress on the CV joints as they have a greater angle on them. Lowering the diff compensates for that angle.

2) Added stress on the ball joints. The upper control arm kits help solve this, as well as camber problems with bigger lifts. I've also been reading about the "ball joint flip", and spacers, which should do the same correction as the new control arm. I'm going to try this before spending a lot on a new arm.

If you crank the t-bars, you will get lift, and you will get a stiffer ride. That should also put more stress on the t-bars. I've cranked mine a little, and like the stiffness - I think it was sagging a little before. But I want to go back down a little on the bars for ride quality, and get some more lift, so it's new arm or ball joint spacers.

I do plan to set the t-bars for ride quality, not ride height. Then see how much more lift I want. Need some more testing before I change it again.

The lower arm WILL be at a new angle after lift, and that could cause more stress at mounting points (bushings and ball joints).

Rear lift shouldn't effect much, it's mostly steering related.

I personally think a bit of this is over rated concerns here. If you add lift so you can do a lot of serious off roading, you're probably driving it outside of it's intended/designed specs anyways, so things will fail.

If you're going to mod it, be ready to repair it!