OOPS well i guess i should read into things before i open my mouth lol. I guess we were both looking at this the wrong way. but that does make sense now. So just think of it as a frame lift instead a diff drop.

 

HUGE correction. The differential drop is only to lower the front differential. Cranking T-Bars is required to get the 2" of lift, but the diff is lowered to keep CV angles. You CANNOT get 5.5 inches out of any T-bar crank. Go take a look at how your Blazer is put together with the IFS, it'll all make sense.

 

One last comment on t-bars, they are your springs, not just a lever to adjust ride height.

I started messing with mine cause I could see the front sag, more so on one side, which surely means wear on the t-bar (weakend spring). I have one side (previously lowest) nearly all the way in, now 1.5" over where it was, which I figure is about a 1" lift from where it should have been. I simply cannot go farther than 1" lift with stock keys. Any further raising, arms or ball joint spacer, and I'll need new keys to keep the current spring load.

To solve that problem, I'm looking at Suspension Maxx SMX-MCS10. I really like the idea that the hex insert can be adjusted, sort of like "ratcheting" it back to continue cranking. Seems like it's one part that can be set to any height range. Anyone out there using these? Have pros/cons?

 

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