Talk to me about Torsion bars....
#1
So my first Blazer (99 4dr) was the first vehicle I ever owner with these things so my work with them is limited. Now I am on my third 2nd-gen in 18 months (Yeah, I'd better figure this crap out before I use up the pool of good trucks).
On the 97 4dr I just picked up to replace the bent-frame Jimmy...
Passenger-side torsion bar has lots of thread left on the adjuster bolt. The driver's-side has about 2 threads left. This is not going to let me jack up that side enough to clear my 31s as I did on the Jimmy.
So, how hard will it be to swap one of the bars from the Jimmy over to the Blazer....? It should be easy by the looks of it, but I have never done this. Coil and leaf springs I've done lots. This is new to me and I don't want to screw it up.
Thanks for clueing me in....
On the 97 4dr I just picked up to replace the bent-frame Jimmy...
Passenger-side torsion bar has lots of thread left on the adjuster bolt. The driver's-side has about 2 threads left. This is not going to let me jack up that side enough to clear my 31s as I did on the Jimmy.
So, how hard will it be to swap one of the bars from the Jimmy over to the Blazer....? It should be easy by the looks of it, but I have never done this. Coil and leaf springs I've done lots. This is new to me and I don't want to screw it up.
Thanks for clueing me in....
#2
hmmm tbar swap 'should' be easy but the threads remaining sounds odd, 1 side has lots & the other has nill?! Odd but has the torsion bar key moved or? Does the vehicle still sit level? Maybe replacing the keys with ones for a 2" lift? Has the tbar been twisted/bent if it's from the bent frame vehicle?
just my thoughts
just my thoughts
#3
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ct
Posts: 292

So my first Blazer (99 4dr) was the first vehicle I ever owner with these things so my work with them is limited. Now I am on my third 2nd-gen in 18 months (Yeah, I'd better figure this crap out before I use up the pool of good trucks).
On the 97 4dr I just picked up to replace the bent-frame Jimmy...
Passenger-side torsion bar has lots of thread left on the adjuster bolt. The driver's-side has about 2 threads left. This is not going to let me jack up that side enough to clear my 31s as I did on the Jimmy.
So, how hard will it be to swap one of the bars from the Jimmy over to the Blazer....? It should be easy by the looks of it, but I have never done this. Coil and leaf springs I've done lots. This is new to me and I don't want to screw it up.
Thanks for clueing me in....
On the 97 4dr I just picked up to replace the bent-frame Jimmy...
Passenger-side torsion bar has lots of thread left on the adjuster bolt. The driver's-side has about 2 threads left. This is not going to let me jack up that side enough to clear my 31s as I did on the Jimmy.
So, how hard will it be to swap one of the bars from the Jimmy over to the Blazer....? It should be easy by the looks of it, but I have never done this. Coil and leaf springs I've done lots. This is new to me and I don't want to screw it up.
Thanks for clueing me in....
You have to get a torsion bar unloading tool. Or get a 6" C-Clamp, cut the swivel foot off so its just the ball and presto you have a home-made torsion bar unloading tool.
There is a dimple on the tbar key, put the ball in the dimple and tighten the clamp. Take out the block. Slowly and carefully loosen the C-clamp.
That's the easy part..
I have taken out torsion bars on three blazers. Two of the blazers had no body so I stood between the frame and used a sledge hammer and a drift pin. I did get a tbar out one time with just a ball peen hammer but the cross member gets a bit bent if you don't have good aim lol. I do have a air hammer and that didn't do anything. The third blazer has a body. I tried hitting them with a sledge hammer, ball peen, air hammer, used a torch, and a lot of Pbblaster and they didn't budge. Can't get a good swing when you're laying on your back under the truck. So i have a bit of a tember
#4
That's not odd, in fact, seems to be the norm. My drivers side had more sag than the pass side as well, about the same amount. I just replaced both of them with ZR2 bars.
I would not use a C-clamp either, instead use a 2 jaw puller. It is more secure and ease of turning will be far better as you can use a socket on it. Plus, they already have a pointed swivel end, so you don't have to dick around and ruin a good clamp.
Just my .02
I would not use a C-clamp either, instead use a 2 jaw puller. It is more secure and ease of turning will be far better as you can use a socket on it. Plus, they already have a pointed swivel end, so you don't have to dick around and ruin a good clamp.
Just my .02
Last edited by Boosted2M6; 10-19-2010 at 04:50 PM. Reason: Add
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