96 Tahoe Column components not engaging ignition starter switch
I have voltage loss, it occurs at the column ignition starter switch. I remove switch and bench test and it is correctly connecting the path to the hot side of the engine fuse box. But on car it is not.
I can also engage starter, and have great spark. Engine tries to run, but we don't get power to 3 critical run fuses: IGN E, ECM 1, ENG 1.
Watching the key cylinder turn, and the ignition starter switch is removed, I see the internal gearing moving the arm that activates the ignition starter switch.
Some prior history. Car stopped starting and changed out the ignition starter switch 8 / 2022. Afterward, I had to fully turn the ignition switch to engage starter, but it worked. It was notably different than the factory switch I had just removed. This makes me think my underlying problem was probably there already. Car has miles, around 215K.
I see there is a cable that returns to a preset spot that can affect removing a key. And there is the entire casting (named what?) that the key cylinder and the ignition starter switch go into, which is another wear out part. I have no problems with key removal, returning, or operation.
Anyone been here, save me some diagnostic steps?
I can also engage starter, and have great spark. Engine tries to run, but we don't get power to 3 critical run fuses: IGN E, ECM 1, ENG 1.
Watching the key cylinder turn, and the ignition starter switch is removed, I see the internal gearing moving the arm that activates the ignition starter switch.
Some prior history. Car stopped starting and changed out the ignition starter switch 8 / 2022. Afterward, I had to fully turn the ignition switch to engage starter, but it worked. It was notably different than the factory switch I had just removed. This makes me think my underlying problem was probably there already. Car has miles, around 215K.
I see there is a cable that returns to a preset spot that can affect removing a key. And there is the entire casting (named what?) that the key cylinder and the ignition starter switch go into, which is another wear out part. I have no problems with key removal, returning, or operation.
Anyone been here, save me some diagnostic steps?
I have voltage loss, it occurs at the column ignition starter switch. I remove switch and bench test and it is correctly connecting the path to the hot side of the engine fuse box. But on car it is not.
I can also engage starter, and have great spark. Engine tries to run, but we don't get power to 3 critical run fuses: IGN E, ECM 1, ENG 1.
Watching the key cylinder turn, and the ignition starter switch is removed, I see the internal gearing moving the arm that activates the ignition starter switch.
Some prior history. Car stopped starting and changed out the ignition starter switch 8 / 2022. Afterward, I had to fully turn the ignition switch to engage starter, but it worked. It was notably different than the factory switch I had just removed. This makes me think my underlying problem was probably there already. Car has miles, around 215K.
I see there is a cable that returns to a preset spot that can affect removing a key. And there is the entire casting (named what?) that the key cylinder and the ignition starter switch go into, which is another wear out part. I have no problems with key removal, returning, or operation.
Anyone been here, save me some diagnostic steps?
I can also engage starter, and have great spark. Engine tries to run, but we don't get power to 3 critical run fuses: IGN E, ECM 1, ENG 1.
Watching the key cylinder turn, and the ignition starter switch is removed, I see the internal gearing moving the arm that activates the ignition starter switch.
Some prior history. Car stopped starting and changed out the ignition starter switch 8 / 2022. Afterward, I had to fully turn the ignition switch to engage starter, but it worked. It was notably different than the factory switch I had just removed. This makes me think my underlying problem was probably there already. Car has miles, around 215K.
I see there is a cable that returns to a preset spot that can affect removing a key. And there is the entire casting (named what?) that the key cylinder and the ignition starter switch go into, which is another wear out part. I have no problems with key removal, returning, or operation.
Anyone been here, save me some diagnostic steps?
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Eagleridge5
Full Size K5 (1969-1991) GMT415 (1992-1994) Tech
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May 29, 2013 03:53 PM




