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ANSWER! sputters, runs rough, power flickers under acceleration

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Old 05-31-2012, 06:23 PM
rockabilly71's Avatar
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Default ANSWER! sputters, runs rough, power flickers under acceleration

I'm not much of a poster on forums, but thought I would share on here. I searched and searched and read all over the internet and after solving my own problem I wanted to make it easy for the next person to find...

I have a 1995 Blazer 4wd 220,000 miles. same kinds of problems always reported on here...when the vehicle gets hot it sputters like it's not getting fuel and all electrical power flickers with it like it is going to die.

I have read how people have tried for days to diagnose and replace every darn switch and module and sensor etc and still had the same problem!

my advice to the shade tree or driveway do it yourselfer out there is don't try to overdiagnose the problem! I beat my head against the wall over it!

I'm not saying your vehicle won't need those other things replaced, but here's a good answer I was UNABLE to fins anywhere else trying to diagnose it!

ANSWER!!!!!
CHECK YOUR POSITIVE (+) BATTERY CABLE !!!

even if you have had several brand new batteries in and out of your truck, check it! the factory batteries were junk, known to leak corrosives. however you probably never saw it. even if you replaced your battery. the positive battery cable on 95-up GMs acted as a wick for the corrosives and absorbed them.

disconnect your battery. remove the red rubber boot from the post. take a razor blade and sliced open the sheathing around the cable to expose the thick wires. IF YOU FIND THE WIRES ENCASED IN A WHITE POWDER SUBSTANCE YOUR POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE HAS ABSORBED THE ACIDS.
there is nowhere for the corrosives to go since the wires are encased so they just crawl up the cable further and further over time.

over time it will not perform to spec, and heat of course exacerbates the problem as your system is having trouble getting proper charge to everything, thus the power flickering and what SEEMS to be fuel or vaccuum related issues.

so before you go buy an expensive CPI or ICM or tear apart your intake or fuel system....CHECK YOUR POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE. it's better to spend 53 bucks on one than replacing everything under the sun!

SPEAKING FROM EXPERIENCE I DO THIS WITH EVERY CAR I BUY.

I'm not saying this is ALWAYS the answer, but I hope it helps some people out there that have felt the frustration many of us had with these vehicles. so simple, yet OVERLOOKED so many times. a LOT of problems are caused by improper current draw or heat related issues with a system not getting a clean power path.

thank you for your time and I sincerely hope this helps! please share or repost with a different title or whatever so it is easily accesible for members or internet searches.

my one time post to your forum, thank you and keep wrenchin!
 
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:53 AM
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Thanks for the info, but it's a well known situation here. The actual cause is that on any side post battery, the positive post can corrode from inside the battery. The solution is to buy two new battery cable posts (about $3), coat them in battery post grease, and reattach them. Easy fix.
 
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