Anyone install the warn W650D lights on a jimmy ?
#1
Hey everyone has anyone came across these lights??
I saw them At cabelas for $199.00 taxes in looking at 215 as a posed to other place I saw them at for 249 there 6.5 inch halogen driving lights and I figured for that price why not ? My problem is the instruction manul says you have to splice into your wring harness?. To hook it up to a light that doesn't draw power when the truck is off everything else seems simple enough and cause I suck at this kinda stuff am asking for help lol
Thanks in advance guys if anyone needs more info I do have the manual in PDF format.
Blake aka bubba84
I saw them At cabelas for $199.00 taxes in looking at 215 as a posed to other place I saw them at for 249 there 6.5 inch halogen driving lights and I figured for that price why not ? My problem is the instruction manul says you have to splice into your wring harness?. To hook it up to a light that doesn't draw power when the truck is off everything else seems simple enough and cause I suck at this kinda stuff am asking for help lol
Thanks in advance guys if anyone needs more info I do have the manual in PDF format.
Blake aka bubba84
Last edited by Bubba84; 05-05-2013 at 10:56 AM. Reason: None
#2
When installing any aftermarket light, there is no NEED to splice into the wiring harness UNLESS they're going to be turned on/off with your headlights/high beams/etc. Post the manual, I bet it wants them to be hooked up to your high beams or something. If you don't care about them being turned on/off with high beams then you should be able to just hook them up to a relay and a switch. I'm interested to see how they make these lights wireless....
EDIT: By the way, a quick google search finds these lights at multiple retailers online for less than $160 w/ free shipping. WARN 82420 W650 Driving Light : Amazon.com : Automotive
EDIT: By the way, a quick google search finds these lights at multiple retailers online for less than $160 w/ free shipping. WARN 82420 W650 Driving Light : Amazon.com : Automotive
Last edited by Blazers.B.Kewl; 05-05-2013 at 11:15 AM.
#3
When installing any aftermarket light, there is no NEED to splice into the wiring harness UNLESS they're going to be turned on/off with your headlights/high beams/etc. Post the manual, I bet it wants them to be hooked up to your high beams or something. If you don't care about them being turned on/off with high beams then you should be able to just hook them up to a relay and a switch. I'm interested to see how they make these lights wireless....
#4
Ok here's warns site with them and the site with the manual
Warn Industries - Off-Road Lights for Jeep, Truck & SUV: W650D
http://www.savannajones.com/Assets/I...ion/124457.pdf
I was thinking about hard wring the lights now that you said it instead of using the hole kit I know a switch will cost next to nothing To I just never did anything like this before so it's all new to me but for the price of those lights you can't beat them!
Warn Industries - Off-Road Lights for Jeep, Truck & SUV: W650D
http://www.savannajones.com/Assets/I...ion/124457.pdf
I was thinking about hard wring the lights now that you said it instead of using the hole kit I know a switch will cost next to nothing To I just never did anything like this before so it's all new to me but for the price of those lights you can't beat them!
Last edited by Bubba84; 05-05-2013 at 11:23 AM.
#5
Refer to my edit above if you're interested in buying these lights online for cheaper than in store.
Anyways, after reading the manual for these things I can see that it uses a wireless relay. It works just like a normal relay except the on/off switch is that remote fob that comes with it. When they say to splice into the harness they're just telling you to pick a wire for the switch to operate. In other words, choose a +12V wire that is always live to be able to use the lights at any and all times, choose a +12V wire that is only live when the vehicle is running to use the lights only when the vehicle is running, choose a +12V wire that is only live when the low/high beams are on to only use the lights when the low/high beams are on, etc etc I think you get the idea. They should've used a diagram in the manual, it would've been very helpful. So, choose when you want to be able to operate the lights and then splice into the appropriate +12V wire. Hooking these up shouldn't be any different than using a normal relay and switch.
Anyways, after reading the manual for these things I can see that it uses a wireless relay. It works just like a normal relay except the on/off switch is that remote fob that comes with it. When they say to splice into the harness they're just telling you to pick a wire for the switch to operate. In other words, choose a +12V wire that is always live to be able to use the lights at any and all times, choose a +12V wire that is only live when the vehicle is running to use the lights only when the vehicle is running, choose a +12V wire that is only live when the low/high beams are on to only use the lights when the low/high beams are on, etc etc I think you get the idea. They should've used a diagram in the manual, it would've been very helpful. So, choose when you want to be able to operate the lights and then splice into the appropriate +12V wire. Hooking these up shouldn't be any different than using a normal relay and switch.
#6
Refer to my edit above if you're interested in buying these lights online for cheaper than in store.
Anyways, after reading the manual for these things I can see that it uses a wireless relay. It works just like a normal relay except the on/off switch is that remote fob that comes with it. When they say to splice into the harness they're just telling you to pick a wire for the switch to operate. In other words, choose a +12V wire that is always live to be able to use the lights at any and all times, choose a +12V wire that is only live when the vehicle is running to use the lights only when the vehicle is running, choose a +12V wire that is only live when the low/high beams are on to only use the lights when the low/high beams are on, etc etc I think you get the idea. They should've used a diagram in the manual, it would've been very helpful. So, choose when you want to be able to operate the lights and then splice into the appropriate +12V wire. Hooking these up shouldn't be any different than using a normal relay and switch.
Anyways, after reading the manual for these things I can see that it uses a wireless relay. It works just like a normal relay except the on/off switch is that remote fob that comes with it. When they say to splice into the harness they're just telling you to pick a wire for the switch to operate. In other words, choose a +12V wire that is always live to be able to use the lights at any and all times, choose a +12V wire that is only live when the vehicle is running to use the lights only when the vehicle is running, choose a +12V wire that is only live when the low/high beams are on to only use the lights when the low/high beams are on, etc etc I think you get the idea. They should've used a diagram in the manual, it would've been very helpful. So, choose when you want to be able to operate the lights and then splice into the appropriate +12V wire. Hooking these up shouldn't be any different than using a normal relay and switch.
#7
here's a simple diagram I got after a quick google search.

This setup should be the same as for your wireless relay. I'll explain the minor differences though.
For a normal auxiliary light setup using a simple relay and a switch:
follow the posted diagram. Pins 30 and 87 of the relay should have the thickest wire size that you can manage (8-12 gauge is good I think). These wires are handling the power going to your lights, so a thin wire will decrease the voltage present at your lights which will decrease light output (bad) and a thick wire will do the opposite. Although not necessary, a fuse is a good idea. Place it close to the pos(+) terminal of the battery (approx. 15-20 amp fuse is good). Connect the other end of the fuse to pin 30. Connect pin 87 to your lights. Pins 85 and 86 are handling the on/off function of the relay. The wires connected to these pins can be thin (18-26 gauge is good) as they aren't handling any kind of large current. Your switch will be connected to pin 86 and the pos(+) battery terminal (or a fuse if you so wish, maybe 0.5-1 Amp fuse is good). Pin 85 is connected straight to ground (any metal part of the vehicle).
Now, if you wanted to use your wireless relay, the same setup should be used except there's no switch installed and the relay is replaced with the wireless relay. Following the instructions from page 4 of the posted pdf: the "Red" wire would be the wire connected to pin 30. The "Large Black" wire would be the wire connected to pin 85. The "Black with white stripe" wire would be the wire connected to pin 86. As for how to wire your lights, I can't tell from the manual how they hook up to the wireless relay. It sounds like there's a couple connectors, one for each light which should be easy to connect.

This setup should be the same as for your wireless relay. I'll explain the minor differences though.
For a normal auxiliary light setup using a simple relay and a switch:
follow the posted diagram. Pins 30 and 87 of the relay should have the thickest wire size that you can manage (8-12 gauge is good I think). These wires are handling the power going to your lights, so a thin wire will decrease the voltage present at your lights which will decrease light output (bad) and a thick wire will do the opposite. Although not necessary, a fuse is a good idea. Place it close to the pos(+) terminal of the battery (approx. 15-20 amp fuse is good). Connect the other end of the fuse to pin 30. Connect pin 87 to your lights. Pins 85 and 86 are handling the on/off function of the relay. The wires connected to these pins can be thin (18-26 gauge is good) as they aren't handling any kind of large current. Your switch will be connected to pin 86 and the pos(+) battery terminal (or a fuse if you so wish, maybe 0.5-1 Amp fuse is good). Pin 85 is connected straight to ground (any metal part of the vehicle).
Now, if you wanted to use your wireless relay, the same setup should be used except there's no switch installed and the relay is replaced with the wireless relay. Following the instructions from page 4 of the posted pdf: the "Red" wire would be the wire connected to pin 30. The "Large Black" wire would be the wire connected to pin 85. The "Black with white stripe" wire would be the wire connected to pin 86. As for how to wire your lights, I can't tell from the manual how they hook up to the wireless relay. It sounds like there's a couple connectors, one for each light which should be easy to connect.
#8
here's a simple diagram I got after a quick google search.

This setup should be the same as for your wireless relay. I'll explain the minor differences though.
For a normal auxiliary light setup using a simple relay and a switch:
follow the posted diagram. Pins 30 and 87 of the relay should have the thickest wire size that you can manage (8-12 gauge is good I think). These wires are handling the power going to your lights, so a thin wire will decrease the voltage present at your lights which will decrease light output (bad) and a thick wire will do the opposite. Although not necessary, a fuse is a good idea. Place it close to the pos(+) terminal of the battery (approx. 15-20 amp fuse is good). Connect the other end of the fuse to pin 30. Connect pin 87 to your lights. Pins 85 and 86 are handling the on/off function of the relay. The wires connected to these pins can be thin (18-26 gauge is good) as they aren't handling any kind of large current. Your switch will be connected to pin 86 and the pos(+) battery terminal (or a fuse if you so wish, maybe 0.5-1 Amp fuse is good). Pin 85 is connected straight to ground (any metal part of the vehicle).
Now, if you wanted to use your wireless relay, the same setup should be used except there's no switch installed and the relay is replaced with the wireless relay. Following the instructions from page 4 of the posted pdf: the "Red" wire would be the wire connected to pin 30. The "Large Black" wire would be the wire connected to pin 85. The "Black with white stripe" wire would be the wire connected to pin 86. As for how to wire your lights, I can't tell from the manual how they hook up to the wireless relay. It sounds like there's a couple connectors, one for each light which should be easy to connect.

This setup should be the same as for your wireless relay. I'll explain the minor differences though.
For a normal auxiliary light setup using a simple relay and a switch:
follow the posted diagram. Pins 30 and 87 of the relay should have the thickest wire size that you can manage (8-12 gauge is good I think). These wires are handling the power going to your lights, so a thin wire will decrease the voltage present at your lights which will decrease light output (bad) and a thick wire will do the opposite. Although not necessary, a fuse is a good idea. Place it close to the pos(+) terminal of the battery (approx. 15-20 amp fuse is good). Connect the other end of the fuse to pin 30. Connect pin 87 to your lights. Pins 85 and 86 are handling the on/off function of the relay. The wires connected to these pins can be thin (18-26 gauge is good) as they aren't handling any kind of large current. Your switch will be connected to pin 86 and the pos(+) battery terminal (or a fuse if you so wish, maybe 0.5-1 Amp fuse is good). Pin 85 is connected straight to ground (any metal part of the vehicle).
Now, if you wanted to use your wireless relay, the same setup should be used except there's no switch installed and the relay is replaced with the wireless relay. Following the instructions from page 4 of the posted pdf: the "Red" wire would be the wire connected to pin 30. The "Large Black" wire would be the wire connected to pin 85. The "Black with white stripe" wire would be the wire connected to pin 86. As for how to wire your lights, I can't tell from the manual how they hook up to the wireless relay. It sounds like there's a couple connectors, one for each light which should be easy to connect.
#9
No problem. I'm glad to help other people on here as much as they've helped me, which is a lot. Besides, as you can see in my sig, I have 3 different sets of lights, all wired up just how that diagram looks. I've been there done that lol. Good luck with your install, post back with any problems.
#10
No problem. I'm glad to help other people on here as much as they've helped me, which is a lot. Besides, as you can see in my sig, I have 3 different sets of lights, all wired up just how that diagram looks. I've been there done that lol. Good luck with your install, post back with any problems.
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