Hi all,

New to the forum, but I've been lurking for a long time and have gotten a lot of help for various issues I've had with my '02 Blazer LS (especially with spark plug #3...)

So I'm having an intermittent issue with my dome light not turning off and retained accessory power not working after I turn off the car from tiem to time. I've looked at the other topics and determined that it's most likely a bad door switch, but I'm a little unclear on how to first, check which door switch is bad, and second, how to replace said door switch.

I can see all the plunger-like switches, and I guess they just pull out with a little help from a flathead? Also, when I was attempting to test it, it seemed that to induce the dome light to turn off on any given open door, I had to hold in the plunger but ALSO manually close the latch inside the door with a screwdriver. Does that mean each door has two separate switches? Like one chime and one ajar or something?

As far as testing each switch, I have a voltmeter that I can run across the two leads on any switch, I'm just not really sure what to look for. My experience with my voltmeter is limited to testing continuity on my guitar amplifier, so not really sure if that helps.

Thanks for any help, and sorry for making a new topic, didn't want to hijack another topic and couldn't find an answer when searching.

 

It's my understanding the plunger switches at the outer edges of the dash aren't even hooked up. It sounds crazy, but that's what I've been told. My rig is old enough the plunger switches are still used. Maybe someone will chime in who knows how to check the ones inside the door.

Good luck, and welcome to the forum!

 

If you needed to close the latch, then your truck is equiped with the content theft deterrent system which does have additional switches in the front door latches to go along with the other switches throughout the truck. The passenger side door pin in the side of the dash most likely isn't connected to anything and is just there to fill the hole.

 

Even though I have to close both the latch AND the plunger? If I do only one or the other, the dome light never turns off.

Either way, that means I have to test both switches for each door. I figure I can just pull the plunger switches and run my voltmeter across the leads and test for.... continuity??? Not really sure on that one. Any ideas on how to access the switch inside the latch?

 

Yes, test continuity across the pins. You have to pull the door panel and weather deflector off of the door to get at the latch switch. Only the front doors will have the latch switches.

 

Ok, will check it out now.

Thanks for all the help!