Well, this explains why he put a bypass on the starter circuit.

I flipped the fuse box to measure the wires directly. Not sure why I did that rather than measuring the sockets where the relay goes, but I'm glad I did.

THERE IS NO RED WIRE. The black wire is measuring 19.6 ohms to ground, which is way higher than you said it should read. I wasn't able to read the purple/white wire because I didn't have anyone to turn the key for me.



Ok. I feel better. What's the next move?

 

Hmmmm, no red wire. Well, you're right on both counts, 1) it explains why they bypassed, and 2) actually looking inside the fuse panel, good job.

The black wire goes to a bolt in the rear of the right cylinder head, (along with a few other grounds). It doesn't necessarily need to go there, it can go to any good engine ground, but you might as well check it and make sure it's clean & tight, (not a lot of room to get at the bolt) ya never know what else is yet to be found on this thing.

The red wire goes directly from the relay to IGN A fuse (40 amp big orange fuse in the image you posted). Earlier you posted that fuse had battery voltage at all times, which eliminates a whole bunch of wire tracing. Probably have to install your own jumper inside the fuse panel That jumper wire needs to be no smaller than 10 gauge wire, 8 gauge would be better.

EDIT: While you're right there, the other terminal on IGN A fuse gets its feed, probably through a bus bar, from the fuse panel battery feed on the inboard, forward corner of the fuse panel, (top left in your image) make sure that's in good shape.

 

I haven't gone and looked yet, but are you saying right as in the right side as you're looking at the engine from the front of the vehicle (IE the driver's side) or the right as you're driving (IE the passenger's side)?

EDIT: I'm trying to make this as clear as possible for anyone that might read it after we finally fix this...

 

Ok... now I'm stumped.

I found where he'd grounded the starter--on the passenger side firewall by the AC evaporator. (Picture 1)

On another part, I looked under the fuse panel again. I can't seem to figure out how to get to where the big fuses are from underneath. I pulled the wires and everything out, but I couldn't seem to get the other two parts to come apart. When I unbolt the fuse block, this is what I see. (Picture 2)

I never could find that engine ground. Could you (or anyone) post a picture so I can see what it SHOULD look like. It's possible that it isn't there any more.

And finally, while I was looking for the ground, I found this (picture 3, the blue plug/cylinder). It's inserted into a hole, and should have two bolts holding it down, but there aren't any bolts holding it on. You can see the empty bolt hole on the right. What is this? If it helps, the tube with the green cap on it (lower left) is plugged into it under the heater hoses.

It's a mess, I know. But I REALLY appreciate the help.


EDIT: Now with picture goodness... Not sure why they're turned the wrong way. Might be because I took them with my phone.

 

On vehicles, the "right side" always refers to the passenger side. The "left side" always refers to the driver side. (Unless this is a right hand drive vehicle)

The black ground wire at the starter relay, (the one that you got 19.6 ohms to ground) goes directly to a bolt that threads into the rear of the right, (passenger side) cylinder head, between the cylinder head and the firewall. I know there isn't much room, but trust me, it's there. (if not we've got more problems) Make sure that all of the eyelet connectors, and the cylinder head, are clean... no green fuzz, commonly known as corrosion

Picture #1: If the black wire with the yellow crimp eyelet goes to a starter mounting bolt, it is not grounding the starter. The starter grounds to the engine block. The black wire, the way it's connected, is essentially a body ground. It's not hurting anything, and probably not doing anything, unless they removed the OEM body grounds, (usually braided steel flat cables from the engine to the firewall).

Picture #2: The fuse panel probably has some snap clips or rivets that you'll need to release to open it up. Somebody was in there to mess it up and now you need to get in there and un-mess it. In the picture of the fuse panel in post #3: top left corner of the panel there is a battery positive lead bolted to a terminal. That is what feeds the fuse panel, and all of the large fuses across the top, including the orange fuse, the one that feeds the starter relay and is missing the red wire

Picture #3: That is the EVAP canister purge solenoid. (page 14, top center, of the schematic.) The black plastic line goes to the EVAP canister in the left rear 1/4 panel. The green cap is the service port for diagnosing/checking the EVAP system. There is an O ring on the solenoid that provides a seal to the intake plenum, it needs the bolts. Something looks fishy... Usually the connector is red and has a dark green with white trace wire, which it does BUT, the other wire looks yellow, should be pink. Anyway, unplug it and check voltage on it with the ingition in the RUN position, should show battery voltage.

Judging by some of the pictures, (and the poor workmanship) it appears that the engine was changed at some point. If they used an engine from the same year vehicle, it won't pose any serious problems BUT, if not, this adventure could get interesting

 

Thanks bud.

On picture 1, the starter relay ground is definitely there. It's the one under the yellowed one (I have no clue where that one goes). I tested the continuity between that wire's eyelet and the starter relay and got a tone/0 Ohms. So it's definitely that wire. Now it may not be meant to go there, but there it is.

I didn't see any clips or rivets when I pulled it, but I'll pull it inside tonight and see if I can't pull it apart indoors where there's light. It was after dark when I was working on it last night.

I'll check that voltage tonight on that EVAP solenoid and see what it's doing. What's it doing while it's loose?

This adventure has already gotten interesting to me. I've learned tons, but I'm not exactly super happy I have to do all this to it already.

 

Find out where the one with the yellow crimp eyelet goes, looks like it has two wires in it, it's not factory original.

The socket in the fuse panel for the starter relay, black wire: earlier you found 19.6 ohms to ground, it needs to be less than 5 ohms to battery negative.

If the EVAP solenoid falls out, you'll have a vacuum leak, the idle speed may fluctuate, (surge), crummy fuel mileage, it may stall, and likely turn on the SES light and set a DTC, (Diagnostic Trouble Code).

 

Well, I haven't noticed any of those symptoms for the EVAP solenoid, so it looks like it's at least sealing. That's a plus...

 

Well shoot. I tried to open up the fuse box to get to the bus bar, adjust the sockets, etc. but this is as far as I could get. Any ideas?

EDIT: Well, I decided that since I had it inside and where it was, I'd at least see if there was continuity between the bus bar and the large fuses (there is). Then I decided to see if there was continuity between the IGN A fuse and the Starter Relay pin 30. There is.

EDIT2: There is also continuity between the Starter Relay pin 30 and the majority of other fuses in the fuse box, so I'm not sure what that means now...

 

The entire bus bar should have battery voltage at all times. The bus bar feeds several fuses in the fuse panel, that's why there's continuity to several different fuses.

Lets back up a minute... From post #20:

"At the starter relay:
The red wire should show battery voltage at all times.
The purple with white trace wire should show battery voltage with the ignition in the START position, and trans in neutral or park.
The black wire should show less than 5 ohms resistance to ground.
If you apply battery voltage to the purple wire, the starter should engage."

Let me clarify this test:
Relay terminal #85, (purple with white trace wire) should only show battery voltage with the ignition switch in the START position while the trans is in neutral or park. This comes from the P/N switch to trigger the relay coil.

Relay terminal #86, (black wire) should show less than 5 ohms resistance to ground. This is the ground for the relay coil.

Relay terminal #30, (red wire) Should show battery voltage at all times. Comes from IGN A fuse, (orange 40 amp) which is supplied battery voltage from the bus bar.

Relay terminal #87, (purple wire) Goes directly to the starter. If you apply battery voltage to this terminal the starter should engage.

With the relay plugged in: When battery voltage is applied to terminal #85, the relay connects terminal #30 to terminal #87 and the starter engages.

In post #21 you said "there is no red wire". That's entirely possible, they may just use a solid terminal from the fused side of IGN A fuse to the #30 terminal for the relay. Actually what we're looking for is battery voltage to relay terminal #30 in the relay socket. Run through these "clarified" tests and see what you come up with. Sorry for the confusion