Please help a brit keep his truck – non starter so uk immobiliser issue?
Hi guys,
I’ve used this site a lot for info but never posted as I never really had a question until now.
I really want to keep my truck but no-one in my uk area wants to look at it. I’ve been refused by 3 garages and 1 auto electrician so far.
I ran out of options so in desperation I listed it on eBay… (Please note I’m not advertising here as I really do plan to keep it)
I’ve posted the link so you can read the non starting story and the trucks symptoms.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230923344926?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p39 84.m1555.l2649
Since posting it on eBay I’ve had 3 different people message me that it is 95% - 99% an immobiliser fault being the European truck version and having the thatchams piggy back system bolted on to the US factory fitted system.
I’ve had my local auto electrician who’s worked on these blazers before tell me that he can’t bypass it or remove it as it’s embedded into the ecu, but I’ve read on here it can be done and sometimes not so successfully.
I’ve performed the passlock relearn sequence even though my security light does go off as it should and doesn’t flash.
I can arm, deactivate and unlock the truck from the key fob as usual and the batteries in it are good. The uk trucks don’t have the chip in the key and barrel so it’s not that.
To me there are no signs that it is the immobiliser as I’ve read other peoples posts where the security light comes on, or the fobs don’t work, or it starts for 10 seconds and cut out, or cuts out while on the motorway!
In the past I’ve forgotten to disable the immobiliser and the truck starts for 1 second and cuts straight out. This is not the case now as there is no sign of ignition.
I’ve also been told that rewiring the fuel pump direct to the battery and operating it off an independent switch would solve my issue. :-$
My questions are:
1) When an armed immobiliser activates what does it disable? Fuel Pump / Injector system?
If it deactivates the fuel pump my garage shouldn’t have been able to get a fuel pressure reading when cranking the engine over and therefore it is not the immobiliser at fault.
2) Does some petrol always get through into the engine before the immobiliser kicks in?
As I’ve mentioned there is no pops or bangs or anything.
3) How do I locate and identify what immobiliser system I have?
Thatchams is the most common used here in the uk but it seems it’s not always the case. Also there isn’t much information on removing these alarms for obvious reasons so where do I start.
4) Is there any other tests or secrets buttons to press to reset, relearn, re-code anything.
5) Finally HELP. I’ve got fuel I can see going into the injector system all my plugs are firing and I’m not in space so there’s plenty or air.
I’ve used this site a lot for info but never posted as I never really had a question until now.
I really want to keep my truck but no-one in my uk area wants to look at it. I’ve been refused by 3 garages and 1 auto electrician so far.
I ran out of options so in desperation I listed it on eBay… (Please note I’m not advertising here as I really do plan to keep it)
I’ve posted the link so you can read the non starting story and the trucks symptoms.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230923344926?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p39 84.m1555.l2649
Since posting it on eBay I’ve had 3 different people message me that it is 95% - 99% an immobiliser fault being the European truck version and having the thatchams piggy back system bolted on to the US factory fitted system.
I’ve had my local auto electrician who’s worked on these blazers before tell me that he can’t bypass it or remove it as it’s embedded into the ecu, but I’ve read on here it can be done and sometimes not so successfully.
I’ve performed the passlock relearn sequence even though my security light does go off as it should and doesn’t flash.
I can arm, deactivate and unlock the truck from the key fob as usual and the batteries in it are good. The uk trucks don’t have the chip in the key and barrel so it’s not that.
To me there are no signs that it is the immobiliser as I’ve read other peoples posts where the security light comes on, or the fobs don’t work, or it starts for 10 seconds and cut out, or cuts out while on the motorway!
In the past I’ve forgotten to disable the immobiliser and the truck starts for 1 second and cuts straight out. This is not the case now as there is no sign of ignition.
I’ve also been told that rewiring the fuel pump direct to the battery and operating it off an independent switch would solve my issue. :-$
My questions are:
1) When an armed immobiliser activates what does it disable? Fuel Pump / Injector system?
If it deactivates the fuel pump my garage shouldn’t have been able to get a fuel pressure reading when cranking the engine over and therefore it is not the immobiliser at fault.
2) Does some petrol always get through into the engine before the immobiliser kicks in?
As I’ve mentioned there is no pops or bangs or anything.
3) How do I locate and identify what immobiliser system I have?
Thatchams is the most common used here in the uk but it seems it’s not always the case. Also there isn’t much information on removing these alarms for obvious reasons so where do I start.
4) Is there any other tests or secrets buttons to press to reset, relearn, re-code anything.
5) Finally HELP. I’ve got fuel I can see going into the injector system all my plugs are firing and I’m not in space so there’s plenty or air.
Thanks Blazer_4x4,
I've learnt the UK blazers are fitted with a Thatchams anti-theft and have a Category 1 alarm & immobiliser:
No's & Codes: TC2 - 1075/1198. R2UL.
Also, I've found out the immobiliser does cut off the injectors but it seems after a few seconds.
As I have closed injectors from the moment of cranking I believe my problem relates to the sensory input for the ECM.
Crank Shaft sensor, Throttle position sensor, collant temp sensor, mass air flow sensor.
I will check, test and clean these today as well as their relevent fuses.
I will also test the connection and 12v supply from injector back to the ECM.
Providing I see no issue from the above, I guess I'm going to have the whole system scanned by a dealer.
Hope this helps anyone else with a crank no start issue with good fuel pressure and spark.
I've learnt the UK blazers are fitted with a Thatchams anti-theft and have a Category 1 alarm & immobiliser:
No's & Codes: TC2 - 1075/1198. R2UL.
Also, I've found out the immobiliser does cut off the injectors but it seems after a few seconds.
As I have closed injectors from the moment of cranking I believe my problem relates to the sensory input for the ECM.
Crank Shaft sensor, Throttle position sensor, collant temp sensor, mass air flow sensor.
I will check, test and clean these today as well as their relevent fuses.
I will also test the connection and 12v supply from injector back to the ECM.
Providing I see no issue from the above, I guess I'm going to have the whole system scanned by a dealer.
Hope this helps anyone else with a crank no start issue with good fuel pressure and spark.
Hi pugjunky
We have had the same problems in the past with our blazer in the uk have a look at this link https://blazerforum.com/forum/lighti...-issues-61572/ it may help the uk blazers do have a second immobiliser fitted and they are a problem but can be removed with out a problem by someone that knows how.
Hope you didnt have to get rid of you blazer in the end.
Thanks
Andy E
We have had the same problems in the past with our blazer in the uk have a look at this link https://blazerforum.com/forum/lighti...-issues-61572/ it may help the uk blazers do have a second immobiliser fitted and they are a problem but can be removed with out a problem by someone that knows how.
Hope you didnt have to get rid of you blazer in the end.
Thanks
Andy E
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