i have a 1987 Blazer 2wd 2dr. the windows and locks havent worked since i bought it. I checked the fuses and they were good... thinking maybe its a relay or something.. i have no idea where to look. any help would be appreciated

 

test the leads going into the window switch see if it is getting power. if it gets power test the side that would get power when the button is pushed to role up or down. if it doesnt have power at the switch then the issue is before the switch, and if theres power to the switch and there isnt any power when you push the button to role down and up then theres a good chance that the switch is bad.

 

ok thanks ill check that out and let you know if it did the trick

 

Ive got an 87 4wd 2dr with the exact same thing going on. Please keep posted on what you did and Ill let you know if I find anything further too!

 

Ok so I tested the switches.. not sure if I did it right tho. I had power while the switch was in its socket and power went through the switch ciruitry while it wasnt plugged in.. I think both swithces are fine and there's power coming to the switch.. just no window movement.. :-\

 

If the power comes in on an orange or red wire, then look for a solid black one opposite or adjacent to it.
Put your meter or test light on it and press a switch. If it goes positive, press different switches.
If all or most cause that to go postive to or near 12v, that is ground.. or supposed to be grd.
That means the grd wire is broken or the ground point is bad

 

Ok I checked on that pettyfog. It goes negative 20 when touching. when I operate the switch in either direction it zeros out. Does that mean the switch is bad?

 

Should the cars power be on? It was off when I got the negative reading.. when its on I get around positive 2.0 and zeros when I operate the switch

 

ok so after a bunch of testing and sanding and testing and looking this is whats going on now.

if the passenger switch is bad would the driver side switch work for the driver window? and if the pass side switch is removed would the driver side be affected in anyway?

i pulled the switch on the driver side off and cleaned off all of the leads (I have not cleaned the leads in the actuall door part of the switch yet). while doing this i noticed that two areas looked as if they were broken off. after reconnecting these two pieces i got continuity between the power and ground and between the power and all other leads.

before messing with the switch i would get a dcV reading of -20 which would drop to 0 when the switch was activated. this happened with power to the car OFF. with power ON i got a dcV reading of +2.0 which dropped to 0 when the switch was activated.

after messing with the switch i now cant get a reading at all power on or off but i get continuity between power and ground. there is continuity and a dc level in the fuse spot (cant think of the level it was at right now).
i plan to take the door panel off tomorrow to check on the wiring in there. then wait til monday to call every junk yard driving distance away for a switch.. these switches from autozone cost over $200 for both driver and pass :-/

btw im only worried about getting the driver side window working both would be awesome but not neccessary. and would there be any easy/cheap way of just putting a manual crank handle in there? i just want some fresh air!

 

or would there be a way to bypass the "proper switch" with a rigged switch or some sort?