New to the forum and 2 days in new to my 2000 Jimmy 4 door SLT. I have done a bit of searching around but haven't seen my exact issue(s). The main issue is that the radio will stay on, and the dome light will not come on after removing the key and opening the drivers door. Opening any other door (passenger or either rear doors) will turn on the dome light and turn off the radio. Not knowing the Jimmy, I first suspected the plunger switch to the lower left of the dash that the door pushes in. It wasn't in great shape and was falling a part so I pulled the one from the passenger side to test. 1. it didn't do a thing to change the problem on the drivers side 2. the passenger side door without the plunger would still turn off the radio and turn on the dome light. 3. I could not find the wiring that "should" plug into the passenger side door plunger at all. Looking past the glove box and down from the dash speaker..still no wiring that should plug into that passenger side door plunger at all.

I have since bought 2 new acdelco door plunger switches and installed one on the driver side which did not effect anything... and still no wiring on the passenger side to plug the new one into.
I did a bit of research and found that model ,seemingly such as mine, with power locks, power windows, and security have a specific door lock actuator that has the locks, door ajar (that controls the dome light and radio off) on it. I headed off to pick and pull today and searched through several blazers and jimmy's, and the very last of the day had the same door actuator as mine. I pulled it and swapped it into mine and still had the issue. Sadly because it was used it really didn't help me troubleshoot but it was better than that $180 delco part new to troubleshoot.

That is where I am at currently. Everything else seems to work just fine, just not the dome on/radio off when opening the driver side door. So my questions are: 1. should I just get a new delco door latch/actuator as that is the last of the potential issue? 2. what exactly does the door plunger switch do on models with the "ajar" sensor in the latch? 3. in models with security / power windows/locks, is there not a harness plug for the passenger side door plunger or is mine miraculously missing?

afterthought, the previous owner had some taillight/stoplight staying on/not working issue and replace the entire turn signal switch which fixed the issue. Not sure if it could be involved but figured I would add that.

Appreciate any next steps advice.
Thank you,

 

My first though was the switch as you mentioned, as these vehicles are prone to those failing. Being that you already tried swapping it, AND you mentioned that someone has been under the dash on the driver's side, I'd say pull the panel off under the steering column and the steel plate there and trace the wires from the switch and make sure there's nothing else going on there. The main harness under the column has to be pulled on and unplugged to replace the turn signal switch (I've replaced mine twice now...) so there's a good chance something could have gotten tugged the wrong way and cut a wire or pulled out of a pin or something of that sort.

 

Thanks for the reply. Are you referring to the door latch/lock actuator in the door or the smaller plunger switch that is in the lower left dash?
I should add that this issue was going on before the turn signal assembly was replaced, though I will see what I can on the under column harness anyway. I also forgot to mention the dash was having the seemingly well known stepper motor/gauge issues which were repaired..however the dash came back still having issues with the odometer LCD intermittently turning off and on.
I am still waiting to get my manual int he mail for the electronic schematic, so I am not sure all of what systems are interconnected.
Also can anyone who has the power windows/locks and passlock system verify that their passenger side plunger switch actually has wiring going to it or if it was not in the wiring harness for the this model where the door latch actually sends the signal that the door is open turning off the radio and turning on the dome light?
Thank you

 

This is a shot of my lock/latch. The top right plug for the latch open indicator on mine is black with 4 prongs whereas the others I was finding at the junk yard was white with a 2 prong plug. I am guessing these are the models without the pass lock system as I am only seeing 2 different part numbers on the GM parts sites for this year Jimmy.

 

I have a 2002 zr2 2 door and am having the same issue. I CAN confirm the passenger side plunger had no wiring going to it. ( Looked for 2 hours. Pulled panels, dropped glove box door, and pulled up carpet and insulation. ) I replaced the driver side because when I started having problems with the dome lights not going off with the door closed I pulled the driver side plunger and it fell apart. Replaced with new plunger and same problem. Went to the passenger side and pulled it...nothing connected. Figured I may have disconnected when the problem first started happening. Nope, I COULD NOT have lost that connector. I do have the security, power window and lock option. I think your observation with the lock/latch being different from the yard is appropriate. Also, my driver side button doesn't actually lock the door anymore. I can hear it working but no lock. Panel is coming off tomorrow. 1 more thing....My driver side door bushings are shot and need to be replaced which may have contributed to the failure, from what I understand.

 

I appreciate the confirmation.. The entire first portion of your reply is exactly what I did and still thought I was going insane so thank you for that. Way to go GM in using an electrical part rather than engineer a plastic plug/cover for the various models.. but I digress.
I checked my driver side lock button and it seems to be working just fine for all doors including the driver's so that is a little different than your issue. However, I was just shopping for replacement door pin and bushing kits last night because my driver's door also sags a bit so I will be checking out my between door wiring as well.
Please reply with anything you find out after you take your panel off an looking around.
Thank you

 

Did you get to work on your door over the last few days?
I haven't gotten to work much at all on mine. Been trying to get smog stuff done, thanks California.
On a good note, no new problems have popped up and was able to get the trailer wiring done and get my motorcycle hitch mount on and wired for lighting as well.

 

I will likely need to start a new thread but found a couple new issues. First I found that the fog lights do not work. I still do not have a manual so I am again shooting in the dark a bit but 1: the bulbs look good..no blown filaments 2. i am not getting power in the harness at the bulbs 3:I am only getting .24v at the fog light fuse under the hood fuse panel. I also swapped the relay for the matching part number horn relay with no joy.
The switch itself has far too many wires to test without the wiring schematic so open to thoughts on this one.

The door latch /dome/radio on issue is till going. Didn't have time to work on it today. I was cleaning the MAF and throttle body.. I need to find a write of on the right steps for plug and spark wiring update because man this little truck is cramped for a spark plug change.

The other issue, which I will later have to confirm, is I think my AC compressor is cycling on and off without the AC switch in the on position. On my way home tonight from my shop spot, the jimmy would stay at a higher 1100/1200 rpm "idle" and I could here what sounds like the cycling of the ac compressor. I have been doing tune up procedures not only for smog, but because this Jimmy seems to be getting somewhere between 10 and 15 MPG. I know the factory spec is 16c/20freeway.. and this only has 75k miles on it..but it seems to be going through gas very fast. I don't have an exact MPG measure as the odometer doesn't display anything more times than it does display at all. Though, the AC being on alllll the time would explain some things. I will see if it will do it at idle where I can visually confirm the ac clutch engagement when off.
Anwyway that is the update.. any help on all the items is appreciated.
Thanks

 

Did you get to your panel and find anything new on your electrical issues?

 

Sorry I haven't gotten back to you. Im having to deal with a no start issue after having the fuel pump replaced. Your hitch mount looks good. Ill try to update after the z is up and running.