It's possible.. did you grab any voltage measurements by any chance?
As for the starter "test".. I'd go ahead and replace it, something doesn't sound right about it. I say this because Advanced said my starter was good, and it turned out to be the problem.
Did the battery die while the starter was unhooked?

 

Senshi. you gotta start with known facts. If you think your battery is charged, read the voltage. It should be 12.6v or higher directly after disconnecting the charger.
You're not only testing the battery, you're testing your meter. The deadest battery in the world will show some voltage, when it's checked coming off the charger.

then hook it up in the truck. The terminal bolt heads should still read that voltage.

It is impossible to have a fully charged battery discharged in a couple hours without sparks when you connect it.
If you had a short, there would surely be sparks when you hook the second battery terminal on. I mean even a taillight bulb which is hardly a dead short will spark when you twiddle with its leads.
If not then something in your truck should show power UNLESS the fuse link is blown. But the battery should still read 12v. and the main terminal on alternator should read 12v unless its fuse link is blown. and starter main + lug should read 12v.
Remember the starting point is always at the battery itself and the battery terminal bolt heads are the surest connection to its internals.

To test the main fuse link, after verifying 12v at batt terminals, test from battery neg to lug at fuseblock.
If nothing, turn headlight on, test from batt pos to fuse block lug {copper strip bolt goes through, or top of that bolt}. If you read 12v, somethings open in that cable. if you read less than 1v. test from batt neg bolt to the radiator frame NOT the grounding bolt, scratch deep

 

A short at the ignition wouldn't kill a battery that fast without melting the column cover from heat energy, plus it should be fused anyway. I bet it's a bad fuse link.