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Wiring Diagrams

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  #11  
Old 09-02-2022, 10:58 PM
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If your sure that its dark green and on C1 then you have a break in that wire from the body relay block to the window controller, most likely in the rubber boot by the hinge side of the drivers door.


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  #12  
Old 09-03-2022, 11:47 AM
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Regarding the blower motor, that's harder for the diy mechanic to diagnose with an automatic system to prevent just throwing a blower motor at the problem because it involves class 2 serial data communication, a blower motor processor and pulse width modulated control of the blower motor speed. I believe that the motor is pulse width controlled on the ground side. You could at least check for power and ground to the processor module on orange B and black A as well as power to the motor on purple A and ground on brown. You could monitor voltage control to the motor with a scope but most here do not have this tool.


George
 
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Old 09-05-2022, 02:54 AM
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Hi - brown is grounded, orange has power and so does purple when fan turned on. Black doesn't seem to have ground but I am only using test light to see that....the black beside the purple I mean.
 
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Old 09-05-2022, 02:59 AM
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Wires through door look ok...dark green to window lock out switch has power. So I must be not looking at correct other dark green for C1? Assume then it is the switch that is the issue?
 
  #15  
Old 09-05-2022, 11:07 AM
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C1 has two black wires on it a few positions apart. The C1 dark green should have power in the run position. If it does then check the two grounds on that connector on the two blacks. A test light (better) or voltmeter from C1 dark green to those two black ground wires should do it. If all that pans out then the switch module is likely shot. If you really want to prove that before replacing the part then put a voltmeter on C2 dark blue and brown and engage the drivers window switch with the key in run. If you have no voltage in either switch direction then the module is shot.


George
 
  #16  
Old 09-08-2022, 04:39 AM
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Originally Posted by GeorgeLG
Regarding the blower motor, that's harder for the diy mechanic to diagnose with an automatic system to prevent just throwing a blower motor at the problem because it involves class 2 serial data communication, a blower motor processor and pulse width modulated control of the blower motor speed. I believe that the motor is pulse width controlled on the ground side. You could at least check for power and ground to the processor module on orange B and black A as well as power to the motor on purple A and ground on brown. You could monitor voltage control to the motor with a scope but most here do not have this tool.


George
So, since it is hard to diagnose is it more often the resistor module or the climate control unit itself?
 
  #17  
Old 09-08-2022, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by gstsaver
So, since it is hard to diagnose is it more often the resistor module or the climate control unit itself?
Auto AC does not use a resistor module to vary the blower speed, it uses a PWM control scheme which is a square wave of variable duty cycle. Theres:

Blower motor
Blower motor control processor
HVAC control module
Wiring
Power and ground
Class 2 serial data bus

I have not worked on enough of these to know the likely order of failure but we have some dealership people here, maybe they can give a perspective.

One crude test would be a dc volt meter reading on the motor control leads. A digital meter should give you a relatively high DC reading with high speed blower selected, motor connected. If not then motor disconnected. My educated guess would be: Power/ground, wiring, blower motor in that order, unless you have class 2 bus failure ODB codes stored.

You can also check the power and grounds of all of the above.


George
 
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