Hey, Josh agian. The 22's failed epicly and my buddy turned me on to a lowering kit recently. It's belltech kit with three inch blocks out back and 1-3 inch torsion bar keys up front, and four toxic drop shocks. I have two questions about this endeavor. A: Will lowering with the above parts cause any other parts to fail prematurly? As in cv going bad quicker than normal, etc. I know an alignment is needed right afterwards, (hopefully the camber and toe will be within GM spec lowered three inches.) B: Will I be able to run a 205-70-15 tire in the winter? I live in West Virginia and would like to run those in the winter and maybe an 18 or 20 in the summer with low pros. (Plus a lowered 4x4, with 205-70-15 Super Swamper TSL's just sounds awesome and unique!) Oh duh by the way I plan on going the full three inches of drop availible with this kit. And I know that I may have to adjust the front a tad with the torsion bar adjustment bolts. Thank you so much for your time and look foreward to some opinions. Oh and sorry to make this so long, but is it hard to change the keys? I know a torsion tool is needed and have seen instructions for the job. My buddy is helpin' me and he is familar with lowering blocks but not the keys. He has a s10 lowered 4 inch/ 5 and a half inch, so he's done some lowering before.

 

you dont need new keys for the front its a waste of money, just turn out ur torsion bar bolts to lower the front for free and then just go with blocks in the back. you should also be fine running ur winter tire combo.

 

Hey, are you sure? Cause I have heard that raising or lowering using the adjustment bolts more than inch and a half or 2 inch can cause problems. cv boots and such. I thought about that, someone said to back the bolts out completly. But I also heard alot of bad. I would love to hear from someone that has done this before on a 4x4. Also heard that backing the bolts out 3 inch makes it impossible to align and keep aligned. with tires wanting to toe out at the top. Might try this method and see what happens.

 

idk if its possible to get a 3" drop in the front without causing major problems, if you lower the front 1.5-2" by backing the bolts out youll be fine. the new drop keys may give you 3" of drop but youll run into the same exact problems you would by backing the bolts out to far, any vehicle with a torsion bar suspension is a PITA to lower without doing any serious modification.

 

My blaze already sags in the back. So I guess I'll drop the 2 inch in the front, and then see what it look like in the back, take it from there. Should I still get the drop shocks at that level? I got the cash so that is no problem.

 

u dont absolutely need drop shocks, but as long as you have the funds go ahead and get them.

 

Thanks for the advice. Monday I'm gonna order a set of belltech drop shocks. And I got my 2 inch lowering blocks today, also got a 18mm deep socket for the adjustment bolts. In the next month I'll tackle it. First I'm gonna shoot rubber undercoating on my frame and such, for it is 17 years old and rustin' pretty good in some spots. I'm just gonna go 2 inches. I'm not really going for any kind of look inparticular. I just wanna close up the gap in the wheel well and get a slightly diffrent look for a 4x4. (and make 18 or 20's not look so small on her in the summer...) Thanks for you advice and when I get it done, I'll drop ya a line.

 

Got it done. Two inch blocks in the back and backed out the tortion bolts in the front. With belltech drop shocks all the way around. My 215-75-15's just barley fit, but shouldn't be any rubbing even with incline One question. Can I run without the screws in at all? I know it is a stupid question but thought I'd ask. I'll probley just remove them completly and put them in storage just incase. Thanks for everything guys!

 

Alright, I had saggy *** with a factory height. And I know have saggy *** with the drop I performed. Cut the bumpstops a little more than half up front. Truck was stiff as hell, but not as bad now. Ordered a set of lowering keys to get the front to match the back, and to see if it really maintains a "factory ride". Got the Chassis tech ones for $65 shipped. Beats $140 for belltechs. Just waiting on them to show up in the mail. Also might get one inch blocks to add to the rear and just get brave with it... Now for some camaro or 4x4 blazer alloys to replace these ugly *** steel rims till I decide on Chrome 20's or black 20's...

 

Alright my luck never ceeses to amaze me. Torsion bars are rust welded into the x member, so the keys were a waste of money. Tried to notch the x member with hole saw and sawzall. Both didn't work. After two monthes of trying, my blazer wins. I'm going to take the drop blocks out of the back and crank the t bars back up untill everything is level. Theres a guy near by selling some chrome 20's for $400. Test fitted one and they stick out in the front but only about 1/2 inch. I'll just get those and then focus on paint and audio some more. Thanks Mikeinwi for the advice anyways. If not for my truck hating me your advice wouldv'e been spot on.