That's why there's so many different flavors of ice cream. I vote yes on the write up.

 

I was thinking somewhere along those lines,......... when I did the front I didn't think the drop would be as drastic as it is. The measured gap between the tire and the fender was right at 7 1/2" Soooo theoretically with a 2" spindle drop and a 3" spring drop (I left out the spacer (included with the spring kit from belltech) I should have had a gap of about 2- 2 1/2". As you can see it ended up a LOT tighter than that!

At this point I'm thinking it would behoove me to add the spacer for 3 reasons,......

1: The added weight of the 383
2: The bumper cover that I have on the way may not clear the ground with a 5" drop
3: The lack of clearance for the exhaust over the rear end precludes more than another inch in the rear. (even @ 3'' running a 3" tail pipe(s) will be next to impossible over the rear axle without using oval tubing)

I hate the idea of having to disassemble the front suspension again just to add the spacers, but given the limitations stated above I may have no other choice. Although,......a 1" block would be pretty inexpensive and WAY easier to install (but then the exhaust issue rears it's ugly head once again,........only worse)

So it looks like I'm going to end up with a 4/3 drop in the end.

 

The following is a step by step guide to removal of the stock components and replacement of the front and rear suspension with a lowering kit.

The subject is a second generation (2001) s10 blazer 2dr 2wd.

Before actually starting the suspension removal have a clear understanding of your goals, expectations, and limitations.
Do your research, gather your parts, manuals, and tools.
Allow yourself plenty of time for unforeseen problems and setbacks (Murphy's law says you WILL HAVE THEM)
Though not absolutely necessary, have a hard level surface (driveway, garage, etc.) on which to work. Aside from the safety aspect, working in dirt or gravel is not the most comfortable working environment. (Being uncomfortable seems to have a detrimental effect on your attitude as well as the quality of the job itself)

Ok, let's get started,........

First, set the parking brake and block the rear wheels. (assuming that you are only raising the front end of the vehicle)

Next, loosen the lug nuts (do not remove)

Position your jack in the appropriate location raise the vehicle enough to place jackstands under the frame, and remove the front wheels.

 

Now the fun (or the nightmare) begins.......

Start by disconnecting the ABS wire clip from the upper control arm.
Followed by unhooking the connector from the frame and then from the harness located behind the upper control arm cross shaft. Once disconnected the wire can be gently pulled from under the control arm and allowed to hang free.

 

Next, we move on to disconnecting the outer tie rod end. Start by removing the cotter pin, then with a 19mm loosen the castle nut at the top of the tie rod end and remove.

 

Next we move on to the brake caliper removal.

Using an 18mm remove the upper and lower caliper slider pins.

 

Now that the 2 caliper pins have been removed, clean and inspect them for wear or damage (replace if needed)

To make the caliper removal easier use a 6" C clamp to press the pistons back into their respective bores. Then lift the caliper up and away from the caliper mounting bracket. Once the caliper has been removed from the bracket, use a piece of wire, or a bungee cord to support the weight of the caliper (do not allow the caliper to hang from the hose)

 

The caliper supported by a bungee cord from the frame

 

Now it's time to remove the caliper mount.

Using an 18mm remove the 2 bolts (the inboard side of the bracket) that secure the mount to the spindle and then lift the bracket up and away.

 

At this point the rotor "should" slide straight off,......notice I said "SHOULD"
That was not the case in this instance. The rotor was frozen (rusted) the the hub and would not separate.

This is one of those times where you have to come up with an alternative solution, so the photos will deviate from the "normal" procedures. (But they will show how in this instance the way I had to deal with "Murphy's Law")