Hi Lift Jack
#1
Hi Lift Jack
So I've realized the factory jack is extra annoying to jack up with since the addition the shackles/tbar lift, also it's essentially useless without pavement.
Therefore, I'm pickin up a Hi Lift jack. My question is, where would be a good spot to lift the rear end? I'm going to get one of the wheel hooks to lift a wheel when stuck, but as for changing a tire, I need a lift point on the back half. Front half the tow hooks should work fine....
Any ideas on a tow point out back? Also is the hitch safe to lift with? I know it's designed for pushing/pulling forces, but how well will the mounts take up/down force?
Therefore, I'm pickin up a Hi Lift jack. My question is, where would be a good spot to lift the rear end? I'm going to get one of the wheel hooks to lift a wheel when stuck, but as for changing a tire, I need a lift point on the back half. Front half the tow hooks should work fine....
Any ideas on a tow point out back? Also is the hitch safe to lift with? I know it's designed for pushing/pulling forces, but how well will the mounts take up/down force?
#2
RE: Hi Lift Jack
I thinkthe hitch would do fine. I dont have a hitch on my truck so I'm not entirely sure how they are connected to the frame but this should still apply. When towing, the force down on the hitch is essentially "pulling" the bolts (that connect the hitch to the frame) down. If you're lifting the truck by the hitch, the rearmost part of the hitch that makes contact with the frame will act as a pivot, which will essentially be pulling the bolts down. I think lifitng and towing would have the same effect on the hitch only the different bolts will see more stress. When towing, the rearmost bolt will see more stress than the frontmost. When lifting, it will be just the opposite. Frontmost will see more stress than the rearmost.
Hopefully I explained that well enough for others to understand. Hopefully, my physics classes helped and that explanation is correct.
I drew a picture to help explain it.
black = frame
blue = hitch
green = bolts
yellow dot = fulcrum/pivot point
red arrow = direction of force
orange arrow = bolt seeing the most stress
Hopefully I explained that well enough for others to understand. Hopefully, my physics classes helped and that explanation is correct.
I drew a picture to help explain it.
black = frame
blue = hitch
green = bolts
yellow dot = fulcrum/pivot point
red arrow = direction of force
orange arrow = bolt seeing the most stress
#3
RE: Hi Lift Jack
Sounds accurate. I didn't think about still having the downward force while towing..so since it can handle that, it should easily be able to handle the same planar force
hooray physics!
hooray physics!
#4
RE: Hi Lift Jack
you can use your rear diff casing (mount) to lift her up...don't know how that works with a high jack though...
#5
RE: Hi Lift Jack
ORIGINAL: Paddle_grl
you can use your rear diff casing (mount) to lift her up...don't know how that works with a high jack though...
you can use your rear diff casing (mount) to lift her up...don't know how that works with a high jack though...
#6
RE: Hi Lift Jack
Haha oh yes. I got the 48' jack with a bumper lift..pretty much a foot of chain with a coated hook on it. I'm going to play around with it tomorrow finding the best jack points. So far it looks like the hitch and the front tow hooks. I was amazed at how heavy these things are...definitely going to think twice before mounting it on my roof rack!
#7
RE: Hi Lift Jack
Do you have any pics of it? Or the web address to pics/info on it? I've been wanting to get one, but haven't really looked into it. Any reason why you choose the one you have?
#8
RE: Hi Lift Jack
Yep! I picked the one I've got because of the two models 4 wheel parts sells, 48' and the 60', the 60' was just too big (5 feet tall!) and heavy, and I just didn't need the extra height. Both lift 5000 lbs., tested up to a max of 7000 lbs. I went with the all black one because it has a simple eye hook opening over the red one's pointed clevis hook (used for spreading, which I won't be using this for).
Here's the jack, 4 ft tall, and weighs 30-ish pounds.
The lift mechanism consists of 2 bolts that rotate one-in-one-out to lift under load. The lift platform is a hook, which is fantastic for flat bumpers/rock sliders...not so great for the blazer.
Thus I got a bumper lift piece:
This can wrap around and catch tow points, frame, etc. I'm pickin up an offroad base that gives it about 1 square foot of basing to make it more stable and better in mud/dirt. I'll post some pics tomorrow with the blazer jacked up using the hi-lift.
Here's the jack, 4 ft tall, and weighs 30-ish pounds.
The lift mechanism consists of 2 bolts that rotate one-in-one-out to lift under load. The lift platform is a hook, which is fantastic for flat bumpers/rock sliders...not so great for the blazer.
Thus I got a bumper lift piece:
This can wrap around and catch tow points, frame, etc. I'm pickin up an offroad base that gives it about 1 square foot of basing to make it more stable and better in mud/dirt. I'll post some pics tomorrow with the blazer jacked up using the hi-lift.
#9
RE: Hi Lift Jack
After a bit of playing around today, and I'm pretty impressed with the jack. Lifts very easily, it's quick, and suprisingly stable under load. But I did figure out that the bumper lift is completely useless. Even if I had one of the bumpers it suggests using it with, the chain is like 6' long...useless.
As for the lift points, the hitch works great out back, but the front tow hooks simply can't handle the weight. They started to flex up considerably, so I backed it off. I then tried the brush guard, that was a no go...it just levered against the upper supports under the grille and would have cracked the plastic grill shell if I had kept going.
A length of chain with a hook at the end should be all I need to get to frame at a couple different points near the wheel wells and front end. Also I'm gunna probably get front receiver tubes and shackles from Synergy Offroad to give me a solid lift point up front.
As for the lift points, the hitch works great out back, but the front tow hooks simply can't handle the weight. They started to flex up considerably, so I backed it off. I then tried the brush guard, that was a no go...it just levered against the upper supports under the grille and would have cracked the plastic grill shell if I had kept going.
A length of chain with a hook at the end should be all I need to get to frame at a couple different points near the wheel wells and front end. Also I'm gunna probably get front receiver tubes and shackles from Synergy Offroad to give me a solid lift point up front.
#10
RE: Hi Lift Jack
And all of this with no pics....... I would think that you would know better.