My apologies

Got some pics today..But I also found more problems.

Here's the tow hook flexing (I say flexing, because the hook goes back to normal once the load is removed..POS hooks):


You can see at the base of the hook, it should be touching frame..and its not..and that's barely enough force to stretch the suspension up a little...much less get the tire up [&o]

And I said yesterday the hitch would work fine...well...I didn't actually lift it up..just test fit and put some cranks on the jack with it...today I tried lifting the tires up with the hitch:

For those of you wondering what's wrong here.....well...yea...
So...I figured..well duh, the jack is lifting from the right side of the hitch, no wonder the weight is going left once it's jacked up. So I try from the center of the hitch, with the ball/tounge removed for stability.

As you can see...MUCH more stable...and I got the truck much higher! Still not enough to change a tire [&o]. If I cranked the jack one more level up, the blazer simply scooted that much more to the left, keeping the jack at the same angle...wild eh.

And just for kicks, I figured I'd try the bumper lift it piece. See if maybe the chain would take up the off center lean, and I could jack safely...


You can't really tell from the pic, but it did pretty much the same thing as the previous pic.. lean with no lift.

SO: to conclude: I need a way to make the blazer MUCH more stable...I was pretty flat ground, but I just couldn't center the weight up. I need a way to lift just one corner at a time, instead of the rear axle. Stronger hooks up front will work great, and again, that's just lifting one corner.

Anyone have any ideas on how to stabilize while jacking...or have an idea on how to get a chain to a frame point WITHOUT crossing the body?

 

My suggestion to solve all your worries, rock sliders. You can make some really strong, really simple ones that will look pretty nice if you take your time.

First thing you need is some lengths of 2" square tubing. Cut a piece for each side that will run the length between the back of the front wheel arch and the front of the rear wheel arch.

Next, grab a buddy or some jack stands to hold the bar up to the underside of your trucks body. Measure the distance from the frame to the inside edge of the tubing.Add 2 inches to that measurement and thats how long your supports need to be. (now why did i say 2 inches additional, well because your body bows out and your high-lift does not, this way doing this will give you a mount point out a little bit. Now if 2 inches doesnt work for you and you want it a little cleaner you may be able to step it in some but to a test fit with the jack to make sure it will clear properly)

Cut 10 or 12 pieces to this measurement (depending if you want 5 or 6 supports on each side).

Now is the fun part....welding!! Either find yourself a welder (if you can weld)or a buddy who has one and can weld. What you are going to make is essentially a ladder missing a side. (see crudepicture).



Once finished with that, using jack stands and a few buddies line up your creation and start tacking it in place to the framefor fitment. Now when you do this leave about a 1/2" gap under the body. Though the sliders shouldnt flex, this makes sure if they do your body doesnt get damaged.

Once happy with it (again test fit the jack), weld it in solid to the frame. After all that is said and done and the welds are completely cooled do a test lift. Make sure nothing cracks or flexes weird. If all is well then throw some black paint on it and you are done.

This should be strong as all heck and make chaning tires a breeze on the trail. We did a set of these for a tacoma and believe me it made life sooooo much easier.


Edit: To make it look cleaner, you can add pieces of sheet metal to the ends of the tubes to seal them. As an even neater look (and so you dont snag on anything) put a 45 degree mitre cut on the ends of the sliders. Again cap them with sheet metal and that should look nice.

 

WolfPack this is sounding like an idea you should try and then make me some as well.

 

Without a doubt. I attempted to register on the Synergy Offroad forums to ask about potential cost for knaffle 4-dr rock sliders...there's already a thread on them potentially being carried for Synergy. But as of yet, no admin confirm[&o]. I didn't even think of the possibility of making my own!!

Definitely going to look into it. I've got a few buddies who could help me out with welding...also I have to find out if I have access to the NCSU metal shop on campus, or I have to be enrolled in a class...

Will you can get 2-door sliders for a mere $320...I wonder what we can custom make 'em for

 

From where!?!?

 

Synergy Offroad carries 'em for a 2-door, with and without a 2' body lift! HERE. Hopefully they'll pick up the 4-door sliders soon, or I'll figure out this welding thing...either one works for me

 

Check out the measurements for the extended cab trucks. Might be close enough to work with the 4 door blazers.

This is the very reason I haven't gotten a hilift...yet. I'll be ordering some sliders from cknaffle when the funds come available, then the hilift will come next

 

Rock sliders is an excellent idea.

Lets think this through.
If your lifting it to change a tire, are you sure you want to leave the truck on the lift while your working on it? Isn't the point of the lift to lift the truck so you can place a stand under it? Then you can work on it safely?

The other uses for the high lift is to get a tire up high enough that you can get it unstuck by placing a rock or something else under it.

Or to use as a winch to drag you out.

Dp you have a tree saver, and chain to attach between the high lift and tree/anchor point?

 

in a pinch i would use the high light this way, but otherwise i have a nice heavy duty floor jack for normal work and a set of jackstands....


also I dont reccommend leaving them attached to your truck....thieves can use it to steal your wheels (ask me how i know)

 

Yea....I think I was more excited than anything else

I'm definitely getting some rock sliders, either custom or knaffle (if he ever announces the 4-dr blazer ones). And I willlll not put the jack outside. Not only am I nervous mounting 50 lbs of steel right above my head/glass/paint by 2 bolts, but it just seems bad for the jacks mechanism and the safety (sucks about your blazer sledneck [&o])

So I have tried it out, and I can get the wheel up to unstick myself easily, and I can winch/clamp with the jack nicely...but even trying to change tires with a jackstand.....the jack can't get the wheel's off the ground with my current lift points. So no jack stands could be used.

I'm probably just going to pick up bottle jack so I can change a tire on the road...and hope I don't blow out a tire offroading untill I get the sliders