Bed Floor Panel Replacement
#31
03-05-2009, 06:55 PM
Looks good!
I hope to get some actual corrugated bed floor from my donor Suburban to fix up the bed floor in my K5. I want it to look like something GM did only a bit different. The previous owner had cut a square hole over the sending unit in the tank. I want to keep that hole so that if I ever have to drop the tank, I can support it from up top with straps from the roll bar. I will recess a cover using tapered head bolts to hold it down for a nice flush mount.
I hope to get some actual corrugated bed floor from my donor Suburban to fix up the bed floor in my K5. I want it to look like something GM did only a bit different. The previous owner had cut a square hole over the sending unit in the tank. I want to keep that hole so that if I ever have to drop the tank, I can support it from up top with straps from the roll bar. I will recess a cover using tapered head bolts to hold it down for a nice flush mount.
#32
03-05-2009, 06:58 PM
Looks good!
The previous owner had cut a square hole over the sending unit in the tank. I want to keep that hole so that if I ever have to drop the tank, I can support it from up top with straps from the roll bar. I will recess a cover using tapered head bolts to hold it down for a nice flush mount.
The previous owner had cut a square hole over the sending unit in the tank. I want to keep that hole so that if I ever have to drop the tank, I can support it from up top with straps from the roll bar. I will recess a cover using tapered head bolts to hold it down for a nice flush mount.
I thought about the corrugated bed floor myself. I figured I'm just going to cover it with sound barrier and carpet anyway so flat's fine for me.
#34
03-05-2009, 07:02 PM
Are you gonna have somebody do it or are you gonna do it yourself?
You HAVE seen what they do to the bed before they spray it on right?
You HAVE seen what they do to the bed before they spray it on right?
#36
03-07-2009, 04:29 PM
Well the bed and tail pan are solid again, just need to be primed and painted.
Today I cut out the passenger side floor pan, the rear cab mount as it is rusted throughand front part of the corner panel. I say panel it was really 1" thick Bondo, I measured it. Kind of slow going, broke some sawz-all blades, some skin....the usual. Hopefully tomorrow or Monday start putting stuff back together.
When welding on the front floor panel, cab mount and rockers do I need to disconnect the ECM? If my ground lead is close it shouldn't fry anything should it?
Today I cut out the passenger side floor pan, the rear cab mount as it is rusted throughand front part of the corner panel. I say panel it was really 1" thick Bondo, I measured it. Kind of slow going, broke some sawz-all blades, some skin....the usual. Hopefully tomorrow or Monday start putting stuff back together.
When welding on the front floor panel, cab mount and rockers do I need to disconnect the ECM? If my ground lead is close it shouldn't fry anything should it?
#38
03-07-2009, 08:28 PM
Ha. After crawling around and "smoking" all that undercoating I had to go find a beer. Probably tomorrow. I want to get it cut to the point that I'm ready to replace. Cutting conservatively right now to make sure I wont have to make up stuff as I go along.
By the way, the advice on the solid core wire and gas....huge help. Now if I can just keep from getting to impatient it should go smoothly.
For anybody who cares, even though Lincoln recommends between 35-45psi on the gas, about 31-32 works great.
By the way, the advice on the solid core wire and gas....huge help. Now if I can just keep from getting to impatient it should go smoothly.
For anybody who cares, even though Lincoln recommends between 35-45psi on the gas, about 31-32 works great.
#39
03-21-2009, 06:35 PM
The dismantling continues! And of course the hole ended up being larger than the replacement part so STILL have to make some stuff up. With the wife out of town this weekend progress shall be made!